Thursday, May 30, 2013

May 30 A day Traveling to 3 site in 1948 war

May 26 sunday. Day at Weizmann Institute in Rehovot. We took #434 bus from Jerusalem to Rehovot that   takes 45 minutes and then walked 30 minutes to entrance. You have to show passport to get thru security. I went into first building which was an administration building to get some literature ( none exist all only on web) but saw a screen with seminar topics and time. One on stem cells was starting in 2 minutes. We walked quickly to correct building saW SOME gREAT FOOD AND GOOBLED DOWN SOMETHINGS AND WENT IN TO HEAR PROf. BLAU FORM OF ALL PLACES, STANFORD. SHE GAVE AN INCREDIBLE TALK ON 4 DIFFEReNT AREA ALL BREAK THRU RESULTS. UNFORTUNATELY ROBERTA COULDn't FOLLOW ONLY SMALL AMOUNT AND AFTER TRIES TO FILL HER IN TO KEY  CONCEPTS. WE THEN WENT TO LUNCH AT VISITOR CENTER AN HAD GREAT BUSINESS MENS SPECIAL , THAT  is WHAT LUNCH DEALs are CALLED, OF SEA BREAM ON CHICKPEAS THAT WAS Delicious. IT CAME WITH THE SALAD BAR, FILLED WITH UNUSUAL  Israeli salads. Then Prof. Blau an her Israeli hosts cam and sat next to us. so we introduced ourselves to her. Roberta remarked she has 2 degrees from Stanford.

We then went to the Visitor Center for some really high tech stuff. You touch a red laser beam with your hand and then by raising your hand still the red beam on it, you control the image that goes from start to finish showing some  scientific something. The several scientists talked about their discoveries including  the woman who got Nobel prize in 2009 on working structure of the ribosome.

We then walked to Weizmann's House that was built in 1936-7 by architect Erich Mendelsohn who also designed B'nai Amoona in 1948-9(?). It is a very large modern home with the same round windows B'nai Amoona had. When he became the first President of Israel it  became the official residence. After he died in 1952 and after his widow Vera  died  it became a museum with all their furniture and art intact. Dr. Weizmann had 120 patents and made a key contribution to the English war effort in WW1 by making an economical process for production of acetone used for explosives. Incredibly while at Manchester university he became friends with Lord Balfour and Lord George who later became Prime Minister and issued the famous Balfour Declaration granting the Jews a homeland in Palestine without exactly spelling out any details. He became friends with all leading figures including Harry Truman who he meet   at a critical time obtaining American support.


Weizmann was one of those  very rare individuals who could do it all, science,
diplomacy, government,  and creation and head of several key Zionist organization. They lost one of their 2 sons in combat in the Independence War.

We then walked back by several very unusual designed buildings and ran in a friendly guy, Dr.  Tsvee Lepidot  who turned out to be Head of Stem cell research. He told us about the stain on several buildings that I couldn't identify but was made a bats that are very numerous in Israel,all fruit eating.

Taking the bus back from the Rehovot bus station we were home in 1.5 hours for a great day.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

April 15 to May 30, 2013:  OUR 8 (OF 10) CLASSES

Mondays at PARDES INSTITUTE OF JEWISH STUDIES, a modern orthodox approach to learning for adults (like us--no tests, no papers, etc.) and also for serious 1 year study.  Men and women study together in a very friendly in-depth manner.
Our teacher for both Monday morning classes is Rabbi Reuven Grodner, a student of Rabbi Soloveitchik, one of the great orthodox rabbi/scholar/teachers of the twentieth century.

9am:  the World of Nachmanides aka Ramban--grandson of Maimonides.  His greatest strength was bringing together all sorts of sources  both the literal and mystical,.  He lived in the 1200s in Spain, Acco, and Jerusalem,.  One of the texts we studied was a letter to his son which is probably the earliest example of an ethical will.  We also study his comments on the weekly Torah portion.

11am.  Talmudic Personalities--there are so many I'm glad I didn't have to choose only 6.  Most of these are from the period of the Mishna from 100 to 250 CE

Thursday at Pardes

9am:  "What's Above and What's Ahead"  views of God, angels, prophets, messiah and  afterlife, and  next week resurrection which we will miss.  Source is mostly Talmud.  Teacher is Rabbi David Levine-Krauss, our first Rabbi from the UK, where it is said,  "it is assumed a UK rabbi is 25% smarter than others just because of his accent! "  He likes to sit and discuss at a desk (table) with his legs in the lotus position.  Fascinating.

11am.  "Great Modern Zionist Thinkers" with historian David Bernstein PhD.  We read and discuss original sources by Herzl, Achad Ha'Am, Chaim Weizmann, Jabotinsky, and Rav Kook.  These men had different world  experience, attitudes, and approaches to the establishment of a Jewish Nation for the first time in almost 2000 years.  

Tuesday and Wednesday at The Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center for Conservative (Meaning save and conserve not right wing) Judaism, Project Oded COntinuing Education.  They also have a year-long study program for serious learners preparing for rabbinate of careers in Jewish education.

Tuesday 9am:
Minor Prophets emphasizing the book of Malachi in the Hebrew Bible.  Taught by Rabbi Gail Diamond (Reconstructionist Movement) very knowledgeable.  Stan took a course with her on psalms in the yeshiva (year-long serious part) in 2008.  we analyze the text very carefully sometimes covering 1 paragraph in 1 1/2 hours.

Tuesday 11am:

Analyzing the Torah portion of the week with Rabbi Edward Rom--we look at various Talmudic sources and discuss relevance to our times.  You may have noticed this is the second course with this title.  It is amazing that there is often no overlap or repetition as there are so many possible interpretations.  Talmudic, medieval, and modern rabbis can find similar as well as unique things to think about.

Wednesday 9am:

9am:  "From God's Mouth?  The evolution of oral law from Talmud through Modern Times."    with Rabbi Sid Slivko. There is a long legal tradition in Jewish thought and action--includes court procedures, case-law, and simply discussions  with decisions based on majority but a report including the minority opinion.

The purpose of the class is to learn about the transition from the law of the Hebrew Bible to the oral law wh/ is accumulated wisdom and stories compiled by Judah HaNasi in 150 CE and written down over the next 300 years in the Galilli (in Israel) and separately in Babylon (present day Iraq).

Many rabbis gave opinions about an issue as if they were all seated at the same table.  Yet they could have lived 300 years apart.

10:45:  Development and Archeology of Synagogues outside of Israel 200-500 CE.  Sardis, Turkey, had the largest ancient synagogue with room for 1000 people. It's 3 times larger than any ancient synagogue known in Israel.
  We also studied Herod the Great (ruled 34-4 BCE)  and went to an exhibit about him and the archeologic finding of his tomb (2008).
Instructor is an Dr. Stephen Rosenberg, lawyer turned archeologist--also has a UK accent.   He probably is 25% smarter than anyone else.


May 25, 2013  A MUSICAL WEEK

TUESDAY, May 21:  Piano Recital at Jerusalem Academy of Music and Dance, Hebrew University Givat Ram campus, the new campus started in 1948 when the original university on Mount Scopus was captured by the Arabs.  This campus now contains all the science departments.

After security, where we had to show our passports in order to enter the campus, we saw a large number of people in front of one building.  So we went to investigate and found a lot of young people each carrying a long-stemmed rose,, obviously graduating.  In celebration of the graduation the university had several tables filled with delicious pastries for the guests and us.  There was also fresh lemonade with mint.

Being refreshed we continued walking to the Conservatory where a 17 year-old child prodigy, Ariel Lanyi, performed  Bach English Suite No. 5 in E MINOR, Franck Prelude, Choral, and Fugue, and Schumann Davidsbuendlertaenze Op.6,  as well as an encore by Debussy.  All 75 minutes were by heart.

It was all excellently played.  My favorite was the Schumann which the composer and his friends felt unsuitable for public performance because of its frequent alterations of mood--"from passionate and energetic to shy and dreamy."  It seems to me that this  presages his symptoms of bipolar disorder before such swings became uncontrollable.

Ariel is also a violinist, composer, and jazz performer acc to the Jerusalem Post--www.youtube.com/arielpiano.

Wednesday, May 22;  JERUSALEM Symphony Orchestra  .  Theme of the concert was The Seasons and showcased both Verdi and VIvaldi's Four Seasons.  Th e former was composed as an opera ballet in Paris where it was understood every opera had to have a ballet in the third act whether appropriate of not.  The Vivaldi was played by two 14 or 15 piece orchestra, many players standing, led by 1 of the 2 co-concertmistresses;  very charming..  the concert ended with Copeland's Appalachian Spring.

Thursday, May 23:  Piano recital by Garrick Ohlsson (lives in San FRANcisco).  He is justly world famous.  He played Beethven Sonata no.15 in Dmajor, op 28, Schubert Wanderer Fantasy, Lubica Cekovska (born 1976) Four Movements (modern and lovely), and Chopin Fantasy in Fminor, op.49 and Scherzo No. 2 in B flat minor, op. 31;  he is considered a major interpreter of Chopin and is the only American to win the Chopin International Piano Competition (1970).   Encore was the most beautifully played Waltz in C sharp minor.  Maybe some of you heard him at Santa Rosa Junior College 7 or 8 years ago?

Friday May 24 Noon:  Handel's Esther (an oratorio) .  The performance was part of the Israel Festival.  It had 5 soloists including a counter tenor as the high priest, a wonderful New Israeli Vocal Ensemble and the Barrocade Collective (small orchestra with several baroque instruments).  Claire Meghnagi sang a marvelous Esther,.  Of course Handel never sticks entirely to the Book.  Ie no high priest in the original story.  This was his first oratorio in English and you can hear shades of what's to come in Solomon and in The Messiah.

By the way, the ISrael has 32 events over 29 days in various venues.  There is dance, jazz, gospel, and more; performers come from all over the world.

Saturday, May25: If we have energy tonight and if there are tickets we will hear  Ester Rada, a very famous and beloved Israeli popular singer of Ethiopian descent (I may have this wrong)

NOT TOO BAD--4 CONCERTS IN 4 DAYS--WHAT FUN IN JERUSALEM!

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

MAY 16; Go to new musical comedy entitled 'Oh Jerusalem' at Beit Shmuel just a couple of blocks away. It was very funny with good singing, dancing and just fun. In English of course

May 19: Go to Tel Aviv area for the day. Take bus to Central Bus Station in Tev Aviv #405 only 50 minutes away. Then walk to area we have not been to before called Neve Tzedek about a mile away. Walked thru area with many Africans who live and work in this area then thru the Levinsky marketarea with colorful spice shops. Neve Tzedek was the first area outside the walls of Jaffa to be built by Jews. The history of how things get done is usually the history of one outstanding family and that is the case here too. The Rokach Family was the  outstanding family here.

The materal grandfather came to Palestine in 1832 from Ukraine and started a printing press in Safat in the north. he supported 30 families working here. In 1834 Druze riots destroyed the press.The Egyptians then ruled here  and Ibrahim Pasha to put the riots who pillaged Safat. He got malaria and the grandfather a holy Rabbi and printer cured him. In return the grandfather Rabbi got a land on Mt. Meron  on which he became the first Jewish farmer in modern times. He raised goats and herbs aand got other Jews from noe deserted Safat to start farming too.  These were the 'First Pioneers' and in 1836 he restarted the printing in Safat.  Good luck was very short lived as the big earthquake of 1837  destroyed the town. In 1841 he Turks take over again and cancelled his land lease, so the family moved to Jerusalem and started the print press business there. they published a newspaper for 41 years the Hachgvetzelet', the Hasidic Journal.  His son did well and his son Shimon was sent in 1880's to Jaffa to start a system of collecting tolls  on the jaffa -Jerusalem road which took 12 hours by carriage.

 Jaffa was so crowded and unhealthy Shimon decided to build a new community outside the walls of Jaffa. He bought some sand dunes and drew lots from among eager buyers for the first 10 lots. Each winner had to remove 100 buckets of sand , dirt rocks each night!! these were hardy men. They designed the streets very narrow as in the old style but added very modern features with a privy  and kitchen in each courtyard instead of  having both communal  as was the custom at that time.  Construction in 1887. The men had to protect their homes from the Arabs from start of construction.

Tel Aviv started in 1906 further north and away from Jaffa after they saw how successful a new community could be.  They changed the style to bigger homes, wider streets and with more park areas partly due to safety issuses less  critical now.

Shimon and family formed the first Jewish Fruit business breaking the Arab monopoly on fruit exporting by winning a contract with British shipping company. Shimon's son   Israel Kokach became Mayor of Tel Aviv from 1937 to 1953 very important years for the cities growth.

Meanwhile ahead to the the 60 or 70's the area is now in total  disrepair because the narrow streets and poor people let the place deteriate. Now grandaughter Leo Majaro-Mintz aa well known artist see her old grandpas house in near ruins, decides to fix it up her self and next thing the whole area is fixed up and is beautiful with really unique narrow streets , old trees and quaint houses.

She is  885 and lives in the third floor and he art work is allover. They put now plays on the 2 nd floor about the  time of 1900's in song. A very interesting home and neighborhood.  The Gutman Museum was closed though guide book said it open. The Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre is a few blocks away and is on the grounds of an old school. It is very pretty area but we couldn't see any of the theatres and any rehearsals. A block away was Suzanna restaurant where we had a nice lunch under a big tree.

We then walked toward Jaffa along the boardwalk and came to the Etzel Museum.This building is on the ruins of a building that Etzel used to attack and rescue Jaffa in the Independence war of 1948. Etzel was a separate fighting force that  fought against the British previously  with terror tactics. But here they fought very bravely and ignored their commander orders to retreat but instead attacked and eventually won  by going thru the walls of homes from one to  the next instead of fighting out in the open house to house. The overall battle was very important as if the Arabs controlled Jaffa and its port the Egyptian could resupply their troops and attack Tel Aviv basically 1 mole away. The museum building has the destroyed bottom half and glass as the main part of the building. It is very interesting and the museum discuss the Altelena affair  where Begin who was head of Etzel at that time refuses to give the order top fight back when the regular army under Ben Gurion has his men fire on the ship loaded with munitions and causes 9 Etzel men  to die.  Yet Begin said this was the hardest thing he ever had to do but his most important as he was not going to have Jew fighting Jew no matter what. The captain of the ship Abe Fine was described by Begin in his autobiography as the bravest man he ever new, had to leave Israel after the wart as all Etzel were on the wrong side, went to Chicago became me a lawyer and his widow and son live in our area and we know the as part of the Russian River Jewish be belong to.

We walked around Jaffa, saw some neat art in old buildings and then took #18 bus from Jaffa all the way thru the Tel Aviv  to the Arlozloff bus terminal for quick ride on #480 to Jerualem and in 1.5 hr.  we walked into our door.
What a great day

Friday, May 17, 2013

May 9 to 12; Trip to North of Israel;
Fun leaving Jerusalem. Rent carat 2pm. Rental has no cars, wait till 4pm, get car, head out in middle of rush hour, take 1 hr to go 2 miles till reach highway. stay calm. Drive to Zikhron Ya'akov,a beautiful town south of Haifa that has a very neat central street closed off to traffic filled with restaurants and shops, and museums. We meet Roberta and her sister's friend Jeff Finger a friend from Palo Alto. He lives in a town house behind the house where Sarah Aaronson was tortured by the Turks in 1915 for being  a spy for the British , which was true since her family started a spy  ring. After several days of torture he got them top take her to her house a block away to change clothe so she die in clean clothes. As soon as she enter the front door she  open a secret compartment grab a gun and shot her self. Her brother and a friend were torture and killed without revealing the names of their entire spy ring. Their effort did help the British easily defeat the Turks in 1917.  The house is in very bad shape as a squatter lives there and the family can't get him out. Anyway the view form Jeff  place down the valley is very beautiful. We had dinner sitting outside, he works for Google traveling to Tel Aviv and Haifa 2 days each per week. His wife and 4 years daughter are very nice.

Then of to our lodging, Nes Ammim between Acco and Nahariya, which I found online  as reasonable, very pretty, in right location near the northern boarder.I assumed it was moshav or kibbutz, that frequently have guess resort like lodges. On mentioning  with cousin Shimshon, he informed that no this what you thought, but i a Christian lodge! and is quite nice and even KOSHER. It turns out that in 1963 some Swiss and Dutch Christians being bad about the Holocaust decide to come to Israel and help build up the land and improve Jewish- Christian relations. They depend( still)  on volunteers to start farming and build the lodge. after 50 years they are very successful in farming with roses for export to Europe and also avocados. Now they are working on Arab-Jewish relations and are building a new village on converted farmland for mixed Arab Israeli house development. The grounds are very pretty with plants from all over the world and also of ancient Israel. They have a synagogue with Torah and  a  large group came Friday morning from Hillel at a college with very religious young kids all very fit and movie star looks or else character actor like. Breakfast was  good and a very pleasant place. Most Jews were staying but we talked a Christian  couple from Vancouver and they had a lecture on Shavot as that is one of their goals to explain Judaism to Christians. from them. Incredible several of the founders kids converted to Judaism after learning about it firsthand.

Friday, we off to Baha'i Founder's shrine and gardens just north of Acco. Their second prophet Baha'u'llah  and   really the founder   lived here from 1879 till he died in 1892  and is buried here. His shrine is the holiest place on earth for Baha'is and so holy no Baha'i lives in Israel thought they make pilmagridage   often. we had to take off our shoes and not speak inside the shrine. The gardens are magnificent. Their prayers are directed to this location world wide. The first prophet was killed in Iran in 1850 as a heretic.

Next was Rosh Hanika right on the northern boarded with Lebanon which has grottos or caves under the mountain formed by waves eating away at the soft limestone. You take a cable car ride down the mountain to the entrance to paths leading to the grottos or underground caves with giant waves coming inside the mountain and very pretty with blue-green water. First you go into a tunnel that had railroad tracts on it which i couldn't figure out. They show a movie on the geology of the grotto and also on the tunnel railroad tracts. In 1943 the English decided  to build a rail line for Haifa to Beirut and farther north that would go from \cario to Turkey and hence to Europe. The New Zealand and South African engineers in one year built 2 tunnels thru the mountain and a bridge. This line function in 1944-5 helping to move supplies back and forth and even bring survivors to Palestine. However in 1947 a war was starting and Haifa was under attack already, the Jews were worried that the Lebanese would use to bring stuff to resupply their forces,so the Hagana slipped in one night under the British guards noses and blew up the bridge. Maybe one day it will be rebuilt when peace does come to this area. It was very pretty walking underground to see various caves  with crashing waves coming in.

In one cave we saw to guys holding a bed sheet with Hebrew writing on it standing on the side hidden. I asked the nest person coming down to take our picture, but he replied just a minute. He then brought his girl friend to to the guys with the sheet were, got down on his knee and opened a engagement ring box and asked her to marry him. Their friends all ran down yelling and Roberta and I started them on Simin Tof and Mazel Tof. It was quite a sweet sight. After all the commotion  was over, I went over and apologized for interrupting his plan. He was very gracious said no problem and Ok now I'll take your picture.

We then went to the seaside town of Naharya a cute small town with a very pleasant boardwalk promenade where he ate lunch looking out on the Mediterranean Sea.

We went back to Nes Ammim and Stan went to Friday night services with the college kids who in Israel are 25----30 year old after army service and travel years to unwind.
What a great day!!

May 11; Go to Acco to see neat site of Crusader buildings & vaults, big halls, and emergence tunnel ( let's escape while we can, the Arabs are getting close!). Very crowded so park outside ancient walls, Built by Ahmed el Jazzar, whose moniker was 'The Butcher' which he earned. Didn't see all  as need to go to Haifa.

Visit with Nomi, relative from ex,s family that Roberta was always friendly with.  Got lost finding he condo despite my handwritten map from Google, which made it look so easy. After 30 min found someone who could help. Her son Oded we visited in 2009 in Arad where he conducts tours of the desert that we went on. He now makes jewelery and lives in Mizpa Jericho ( this is real desert living). Nomi is 85 and is a lovely lady and we went to her favorite restaurant in a Druze village Osafiya about 5 miles south of Haifa past the University of Haifa. The village was bustling with secular Jews from Haifa coming for a good meal on Shabbat. The portions were enormous. Roberta's veal actually lasted for 2 more meals for both of us. Mine just one meal. They  brought  salads for the 3 of us and despite my best efforts for them to bring for only one, they brought 10 plates of different salads  for 3. Each cost 29 shelkels or about $9. we also bought some sweets which were great.
We got lost getting out of Haifa but after leaving the mountain ,it was smooth riding back to Nes Ammim.

May 12; First stop is the Lochamei  Hageta'ot Kibbutz and their  Ghetto Fighters Museum. This kibbutz was founded in 1949 by Holocaust survivors many of whom had actually fought in the ghetto or forests. One of the key fighters in the Warsaw Ghetto who escaped in the sewers and survived and helped start this kibbutz where people shared many of the same experience and could help one another. they started the first Holocaust Museum in the world with their own stuff initially. Now the Museum has grown to be very large. I thought we would spend one hour there but were there for 4.5 hours. It was very moving to read the short history of many of the survivors who lived in the kibbutz.

Next stop was Bet She'arim National Park southeast of Haifa where the famous Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi is buried in 220 CE. He headed the Jewish community and was head of the 70 member Sanhedrin Court that decided Jewish Law. He taught a whole generation of Rabbis and was famous all over, so much so that rabbis from all over wanted to be buried with him.  From Arabia, Turkey, etc rabbis are buried in large caves dug into the mountain. He had to leave bet She'arim and then went to Sepphoris , but wanted to be buried back here.  Some of the ancient town is uncovered too. The new town of Kiryat Tiv'on is beautiful with very nice homes overlooking a valley and in fact the view from the monument to Alexander Zeid of the entire Jezreal valley and Mt. Gilboa was fabulous. We bought some chocolate from Mishi a local chocolatier, very good.

What a great 3 day trip