June 9, 2013 Bad Kharma Taxi Ride in Tel Aviv. We were trying to go from Independence Hall to the Palmach Museum for the 3pm presentation in English. While waiting for a bus, it became obvious we would never arrive on time unless we took a cab so the seven of us got into two cabs and we took off. Our driver did not know where the Palmach Museum was although we told him it was near the Israel Museum and Rabin Square, both well known places whose whereabouts he didn't know although he had lived in Tel Aviv for 20 years. That alone should have warned us.
Finally he followed the other cab whose driver thought he knew where to go; but he was going south and we knew we should be going north. I even knew the Hebrew for north and told him we were going wrong. Stan showed him the map--the driver didn't have his reading glasses. Stan told him to go north on Ibn Gabriole Street, one of the main north/south boulevards. Then he handed us his phone and wanted us to type the name of the street. It turned out the other cab driver was headed south toward Palmach Street which is on the side of town away from the Palmach Museum.
By that time it was around 3:30 and there was no hope of getting to the museum. So 45 minutes and 49 Sheckles later, where were we? By Independence Hall where we had started. We got out of the cab. Stan and I had planned this for a long time and we were angry, hot, exasperated, and disappointed.
So what do you do when you are angry, hot, exasperated, and disappointed in Tel Aviv? We walked to the beach. Next time try the bus. It's an easy ride with Egged Bus Company from the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem to Tel Aviv and back. We were thinking of taking the train back to Jerusalem but it takes longer and it was 7 pm. One nice thing about Jerusalem is that it is at 4000 feet and cools off at night. As did our tempers.
Monday, July 8, 2013
Sunday, June 30, 2013
June 17, 2013: CLARINETIST GIORA FEIDMAN
June 17, 2013: CLARINETIST GIORA FEIDMAN
Giora Feidman gave a free concert, part of a series of live concerts on Mondays at 5 pm. It was broadcast live on Voice of Israel (Kol Yisrael). The problem was we couldn't get there early and by the time we arrived, all seats were taken. He is a very famous klezmer clarinetist who began his career with the Israel Philharmonic. Anyway we stood outside the doors of the concert hall for the first half. We could hear the clarinet but not the back--up band, the Gitanes Blondes (Blond Gypsies) from Berlin.
During intermission Stan found 2 seats in second row center. OK they had handwritten signs in Hebrew probably saying reserved. But some nice people in the third row said no one sat there during the first half. So we sat down. As the intermission was ending, a man who worked at the hall came over and spoke to us in long Hebrew sentences. Stan apologized for not understanding Hebrew. The man went away and we stayed.
Feidman is a 76 year old who was born in Argentina and immigrated to Israel many years ago. He morphed from a fantastic classical clarinetist to a marvelous klezmer clarinetist about twenty years ago. If you saw the movie "The Comedian Harmonists" and remember the wedding scene (the baritone and the statuesque blond) he was the star of the music for the wedding. If you didn't see the movie, it's worth getting on NetFlicks or at Video Droid.
His technique, musicianship, and showmanship are terrific. The band was wonderful. At one point they told the string bassist to play a solo. He stood up and began bowing a waltz in a minor key on the top two strings of the bass without an accompaniment. Then the guitarist left his instrument and stood behind the bassist with his arms around him so that he could plunk out a bass part (1-5-1-5) on the two low strings. Then the violinist leaves the violin but keeps his hand on the bow; he lay down at the foot of the bass and bows beats two and three and some counter melody on the strings below the bridge.
The endeavor ended with the accordionist picking up the violin to pluck the last note.
Maybe you have to be there. I couldn't stop laughing.
Giora Feidman gave a free concert, part of a series of live concerts on Mondays at 5 pm. It was broadcast live on Voice of Israel (Kol Yisrael). The problem was we couldn't get there early and by the time we arrived, all seats were taken. He is a very famous klezmer clarinetist who began his career with the Israel Philharmonic. Anyway we stood outside the doors of the concert hall for the first half. We could hear the clarinet but not the back--up band, the Gitanes Blondes (Blond Gypsies) from Berlin.
During intermission Stan found 2 seats in second row center. OK they had handwritten signs in Hebrew probably saying reserved. But some nice people in the third row said no one sat there during the first half. So we sat down. As the intermission was ending, a man who worked at the hall came over and spoke to us in long Hebrew sentences. Stan apologized for not understanding Hebrew. The man went away and we stayed.
Feidman is a 76 year old who was born in Argentina and immigrated to Israel many years ago. He morphed from a fantastic classical clarinetist to a marvelous klezmer clarinetist about twenty years ago. If you saw the movie "The Comedian Harmonists" and remember the wedding scene (the baritone and the statuesque blond) he was the star of the music for the wedding. If you didn't see the movie, it's worth getting on NetFlicks or at Video Droid.
His technique, musicianship, and showmanship are terrific. The band was wonderful. At one point they told the string bassist to play a solo. He stood up and began bowing a waltz in a minor key on the top two strings of the bass without an accompaniment. Then the guitarist left his instrument and stood behind the bassist with his arms around him so that he could plunk out a bass part (1-5-1-5) on the two low strings. Then the violinist leaves the violin but keeps his hand on the bow; he lay down at the foot of the bass and bows beats two and three and some counter melody on the strings below the bridge.
The endeavor ended with the accordionist picking up the violin to pluck the last note.
Maybe you have to be there. I couldn't stop laughing.
June 3, 2013 Comedy Tonight
June 3, 2013 Comedy Tonight
When you go to Jerusalem, don't miss comedian David Klimnick, Saturday nights at 9:30 or 10pm at a tiny club called, Off The Wall, near Ben Yehuda Street. 25 Sheckles -- about $7.
He's very funny. He talks about life in the US and in Israel, the differences and similarities and his experiences coming from New York City to live in Israel. There are usually two other comedians.
We took Stan's 12 year old granddaughter and her parents--We all laughed.
When you go to Jerusalem, don't miss comedian David Klimnick, Saturday nights at 9:30 or 10pm at a tiny club called, Off The Wall, near Ben Yehuda Street. 25 Sheckles -- about $7.
He's very funny. He talks about life in the US and in Israel, the differences and similarities and his experiences coming from New York City to live in Israel. There are usually two other comedians.
We took Stan's 12 year old granddaughter and her parents--We all laughed.
June 26, 2013 CHARGES OF APARTHEID
June 26, 2013 CHARGES OF APARTHEID
I have ridden the light rail from one end of Jerusalem to the other--the entire route. Both Arabs and Jews are on it. You can identify the Arab women and the religious Jewish women by the type of head scarf each wears. It's more difficult for a foreigner to distinguish Jewish from Arab men if they wear regular clothes.
We went to the Zoo. There were Arab and Jewish families and school classes of Arab and Jewish school children. We rode the buses. There is no "back of the bus" for Arabs, dark-skinned people, or women.
The women in the police and army at the Western Wall were racially diverse: White European/Russians, Dark Ethiopians, Black Africans, Arab, East Indian. This year Miss Israel is a woman of Ethiopian descent.
At Liberty Bell Park, a few blocks from our rented apartment, many Arab families barbecue, especially on Fridays. Jewish and Arab children play in the playground. Stan says the father does all the work of the barbecue while the women talk.
One of the signs of apartheid is different laws for different people. In Israel there are two laws: one establishes a way of marrying in the Muslim tradition and another exempting Israeli Arabs from serving in the armed forces.
Israeli Arabs attend universities based on merit only and enter many professions including medicine, nursing, and especially pharmacy which is a mostly Arab profession acc to Stan's cousin. Are things perfect? No, but what country is ideal in this area?
When people make charges as serious as Apartheid, they should also look at the Arab nations. This is where one can objectively apply this label.
Walking around in Israel whether in Jerusalem , Tel Aviv , or any other small cities one can appreciate the diversity of the people and just marvel how well it works for such a short period since statehood.
I have ridden the light rail from one end of Jerusalem to the other--the entire route. Both Arabs and Jews are on it. You can identify the Arab women and the religious Jewish women by the type of head scarf each wears. It's more difficult for a foreigner to distinguish Jewish from Arab men if they wear regular clothes.
We went to the Zoo. There were Arab and Jewish families and school classes of Arab and Jewish school children. We rode the buses. There is no "back of the bus" for Arabs, dark-skinned people, or women.
The women in the police and army at the Western Wall were racially diverse: White European/Russians, Dark Ethiopians, Black Africans, Arab, East Indian. This year Miss Israel is a woman of Ethiopian descent.
At Liberty Bell Park, a few blocks from our rented apartment, many Arab families barbecue, especially on Fridays. Jewish and Arab children play in the playground. Stan says the father does all the work of the barbecue while the women talk.
One of the signs of apartheid is different laws for different people. In Israel there are two laws: one establishes a way of marrying in the Muslim tradition and another exempting Israeli Arabs from serving in the armed forces.
Israeli Arabs attend universities based on merit only and enter many professions including medicine, nursing, and especially pharmacy which is a mostly Arab profession acc to Stan's cousin. Are things perfect? No, but what country is ideal in this area?
When people make charges as serious as Apartheid, they should also look at the Arab nations. This is where one can objectively apply this label.
Walking around in Israel whether in Jerusalem , Tel Aviv , or any other small cities one can appreciate the diversity of the people and just marvel how well it works for such a short period since statehood.
JUNE 26, 2013 FOOD IN ISRAEL
JUNE 26, 2013 FOOD IN ISRAEL
BREAKFAST at a hotel is a buffet with
lots of variety: juice, fresh fruit, salads (see other meal
description), two kinds of herring, dry cereals, cheeses including
cottage cheese, cheddar, swiss, lebaneh (a smooth soft white cheese
the consistency of sour cream often served herbed with fresh dill).
Warm dishes: berekas (filo dough
stuffed with potatoes and herbs, or mushrooms, or cheese); eggs
cooked in various ways ie omelet, soft boiled, easy over, and my
favorite shaksouka which is eggs poached in a sauce. I've had 2
different kinds—chopped spinach with herbs with a little cream and
fresh tomato sauce with garlic, onions, and paprika.
Breads: many whole grain, often
warm, pita, sour dough and butter, margarine, jams, Nutella, and
peanut butter. There are usually some kinds of cake as well.
TYPICAL MEAL IN A RESTAURANT begins
with small dishes of many kinds of salads (“salatim” which is
Hebrew for salads): the ubiquitous Israeli tomato and cucumber in a
light vinaigrette with herbs, grated carrots with ginger, beets,
eggplant with peppers, eggplant with tomatoes, eggplant mushed with
herbs and sesame; hummus (garbanzo spread) on warm bread or pita,
cabbage salad, occasionally lettuce with lemon juice, olives,
pickles, hot peppers. Details and recipes vary.
Main Course: grilled meat or fish
including chicken marinated and served on spear, lamb or chicken
kabobs (in Israel and the Mideast this means ground meat clumped on a
spear or a cinnamon stick—shashlik would be chunks of meat (not
ground). Meat is either marinated or herbed and very tasty.
Dessert at one restaurant was a tart
lemon sorbet with a tart mixed fruit compote spooned over the
sorbet—very refreshing on a hot day.
Beverages: Pitchers of lemonade and
orange juice and flasks of water are on the table. Coffee or tea
brewed with mint followed. Ice Coffee is a delicious drink of
coffee and vanilla ice cream with a little extra vanilla and whipped
cream—don't expect plain coffee over ice.
Israel produces wonderful wines. I
especially liked the cabernet sauvignons which are grown from the
Negev Desert to the Golan Heights. Very smooth. Great bouquets.
Restaurants do not need a liquor license. They either are or are not
certified kosher; this means closed for Shabbat, undergoing extensive
preparation for Passover, and serving either meat or mild foods but
not both. Fish goes either way. No pork or shellfish is kosher.
Most Jerusalem restaurants are kosher; most Tel Aviv restaurants are
not. This seems to reflect a north to south geographic divide
between religious and secular populations of Israel.
Stan's Experience with Women of the Wall
June 9, 2013 or in Jewish calender 1 Tammuz; The first of the month is a special day in Judaism called Rosh Chodesh or the head of the Month which traditionally has been a time of special prayers for women. In Jerusalem women have been meeting on Rosh Chodesh to pray at the Kotel (AKA Western Wall). However they have met with much difficulty over the last 30 years. This day was going to be the first since court orders provided security and chances were things were going to happen. Roberta and my daughter decided to go with my encouragement as history was being made. Below are our separate stories of this Kotel experience.
Stan; Security was very heavy and one main entrance was closed. At 7am thousands of people were already there. After Roberta and Allison finally got into the women's section I looked around and saw many Haradi (AKA Ultra-orthodox) men holding a sign which read "Provocation Women". So much for English education of the Haredi. The next line said " If you want to start a new religion build your own Wall."
So I went up to the man holding the large banner and asked him if he had built that wall pointing to the Western Wall? He said no, so I said, "Then that is a silly and stupid sign." That started a long discussion with him, then 10 and then 100 of his yeshiva buddies. The second person who tried to convince me of the errors of my idea was smoking. So I said, "I can't believe you are smoking when Moses said one must take care of one's body." I wouldn't let up on him until he dropped his cigarette on the plaza and crushed it with his foot. Then I told him, "It's a disgrace to throw it on the ground, desecrating the Western Wall plaza." He refused to pick it up despite my continual requests.
Many of the Haredi Yeshiva students were angry, yelling and getting too close to me. I tried to tell them that Judaism has always changed--after the Second Temple, during the Talmudic period, and even with the Shulchan Aruch written by Rabbi Josef Caro in 1500's. The Hassids changed things in the 1700s and then they changed again. Ok, so women's role didn't change then, but why not now? I told them that these women, some of whom are Orthodox, most Israeli, keep kosher and want to be holy, just as men do; as Moses says all Jews want to become holy. Their response kept getting louder and more were talking at one time. Then with my back turned to one half, I got shoved. I turned around and said, "That's going too far. Don't push me. What I should have added was, "That's cowardly--to push someone when he's not looking. Is that what Haredi (ultra-orthodox) do?" But alas I only thought of it later.
Meanwhile the situation continued to become more tense as waves of the crowd began to get closer to me and I was pushing back. Then two strong young men got between me and the crowd of Haradi and separated the crowd from me. The crowd became even more agitated whereupon I felt a tap on my shoulder. I turned around to see an army officer beckoning me to leave immediately and follow him which of course I did. He led me to another enclosure between the Women of the Wall and the plaza with the angry Haredi mob. This enclosure had only non-Haredi men in normal dress and in fact most were praying Rosh Chodesh festival prayers in sync with the Women of the Wall. Others in this enclosure were reporters and photographers (there were lots) working feverishly to get their story and photos.
So I joined them in prayer while at the same time thinking about my recent experience. At no time did I feel in danger but trying to talk to these Ultra-orthodox young men was unproductive but I felt it was worth it. Interestingly there was only this one group protesting against the Women. There were thousands of Haredi men praying in the men's section not involved with protesting. Unfortunately I did not get the name of the Haredi Yeshiva whose students were attacking me. Later the same group was actually running after two men in regular clothes who were trying to escape from them. They got away too.
I could see Roberta with her distinctive hat and Allison in the middle of hundreds of Women praying and this made me very proud. At the end of the service as the Women were leaving I was able to join with Roberta and Allison in a very emotional greeting. We all knew that they had taken part in an historic event demonstrating that women have rights at the Western Wall and can express their Judaism as they determine by themselves. This time the army had to protect the Women but hopefully in the future this will not be necessary. All in all it was a very exciting, moving, and important morning.
Stan; Security was very heavy and one main entrance was closed. At 7am thousands of people were already there. After Roberta and Allison finally got into the women's section I looked around and saw many Haradi (AKA Ultra-orthodox) men holding a sign which read "Provocation Women". So much for English education of the Haredi. The next line said " If you want to start a new religion build your own Wall."
So I went up to the man holding the large banner and asked him if he had built that wall pointing to the Western Wall? He said no, so I said, "Then that is a silly and stupid sign." That started a long discussion with him, then 10 and then 100 of his yeshiva buddies. The second person who tried to convince me of the errors of my idea was smoking. So I said, "I can't believe you are smoking when Moses said one must take care of one's body." I wouldn't let up on him until he dropped his cigarette on the plaza and crushed it with his foot. Then I told him, "It's a disgrace to throw it on the ground, desecrating the Western Wall plaza." He refused to pick it up despite my continual requests.
Many of the Haredi Yeshiva students were angry, yelling and getting too close to me. I tried to tell them that Judaism has always changed--after the Second Temple, during the Talmudic period, and even with the Shulchan Aruch written by Rabbi Josef Caro in 1500's. The Hassids changed things in the 1700s and then they changed again. Ok, so women's role didn't change then, but why not now? I told them that these women, some of whom are Orthodox, most Israeli, keep kosher and want to be holy, just as men do; as Moses says all Jews want to become holy. Their response kept getting louder and more were talking at one time. Then with my back turned to one half, I got shoved. I turned around and said, "That's going too far. Don't push me. What I should have added was, "That's cowardly--to push someone when he's not looking. Is that what Haredi (ultra-orthodox) do?" But alas I only thought of it later.
Meanwhile the situation continued to become more tense as waves of the crowd began to get closer to me and I was pushing back. Then two strong young men got between me and the crowd of Haradi and separated the crowd from me. The crowd became even more agitated whereupon I felt a tap on my shoulder. I turned around to see an army officer beckoning me to leave immediately and follow him which of course I did. He led me to another enclosure between the Women of the Wall and the plaza with the angry Haredi mob. This enclosure had only non-Haredi men in normal dress and in fact most were praying Rosh Chodesh festival prayers in sync with the Women of the Wall. Others in this enclosure were reporters and photographers (there were lots) working feverishly to get their story and photos.
So I joined them in prayer while at the same time thinking about my recent experience. At no time did I feel in danger but trying to talk to these Ultra-orthodox young men was unproductive but I felt it was worth it. Interestingly there was only this one group protesting against the Women. There were thousands of Haredi men praying in the men's section not involved with protesting. Unfortunately I did not get the name of the Haredi Yeshiva whose students were attacking me. Later the same group was actually running after two men in regular clothes who were trying to escape from them. They got away too.
I could see Roberta with her distinctive hat and Allison in the middle of hundreds of Women praying and this made me very proud. At the end of the service as the Women were leaving I was able to join with Roberta and Allison in a very emotional greeting. We all knew that they had taken part in an historic event demonstrating that women have rights at the Western Wall and can express their Judaism as they determine by themselves. This time the army had to protect the Women but hopefully in the future this will not be necessary. All in all it was a very exciting, moving, and important morning.
June 7, 2013 Women Of the Wall
Allison (Stan's daughter) and I went to
the Western Wall to join the Women of the Wall who come there monthly
for the past 30 years to celebrate the New Moon (Rosh Chodesh), a
traditionally women's holiday. The women pray in their own style
which is much opposed by the ultra-Orthodox
who make it a tense situation; in their
tradition, women are neither seen nor heard in religious observance
(not that the Western Wall is a synagogue although they debate this);
consequently few orthodox women even go to synagogue services—which
may be the desired effect. The Women of the Wall wear tallitot
(prayer shawls) and some wear tefillin and non-traditional head
coverings. They pray and sing aloud and read the torah from a
book—they have sometimes used a scroll but this time did not; in
these ways they break with ultra-Orthodox tradition.
The ultra-Orthodox, both men and women,
become so crazy that security is dense—made possible by an Israel
Supreme Court decision that Women of the Wall have the right to
congregate there. The Women come from all other strains of
Judaism—reform, conservative, reconstructionist, orthodox.
Today, the Women were bussed in; we did
not know this so we almost couldn't get in. We finally followed two
women who after speaking with several people found a man in uniform
who said, “I'll take you in.” He did. We later found out he was
the police commander.
The service lasted 1 ½ hours. We all
stood. Even at 8am it was hot. There were 200-300 women there so it
was also crowded. I am not religious and don't wear religious garb.
But I was there to support religious expression and diversity.
For those who haven't seen the wall:
there is a large section for men. On their right are opaque wooden
separators and then the women's section, which is much smaller. The
Women of the Wall stood to the right of that women's section
separated by barricades attended by women police and soldiers. By
the way, the uniformed women had an array of skin colors including
black, Ethiopian, Arabic, and blond European. Just to the right of
the Women on the wooden covered staircase which goes to the Dome of
the Rock/Al Aksa Mosque area were police observers communicating with
those on the ground. Between and behind the Women and the plaza were
non-ultra-orthodox men who support the Women of the Wall. Stan was
with them. They tried to coordinate their prayer service with that
of the Women. Occasionally ultra-Orthodox school girls would hold up
a sign, “Provocation women—you are making a new religion.”
(Secular education is not an emphasis in their religious
schools—hence the poor use of the first word—you want the Women
to correct this? Small joke.)
At the end of the service the Women
sang “Hatikva” (“The Hope”, Israel's national anthem) and
walked out together. That point was very tense. Suddenly the number
of police and army women seemed to greatly increase at the
barricades. We were joined on the way out by the section of
supportive men. All in all the authorities did a good job of crowd
control. I don't think it's always been this way. In an ugly
earlier part of this process, Women of the Wall have been arrested.
The Ultra-Orthodox threw things at them. Justice and the court
system intervened in a positive way.
Most of the action was in Stan's
section—You'll have to read his part of the Blog when he writes it.
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
May 31. 2013 Visit with Alan Zeffren
We had a very nice day wit Alan Zeffren, a old high school friend from University Senior High in University City, Missouri where I grew up. Alan moved to Israel 40 years ago after getting a Ms from Yale in Classics. He then decided he would be most happy in Israel rather as a high school teacher than a professor in The Us. He and his wonderful wife Nomi live in Ashkelon on the coast only 8 miles from Gaza. he is retired now but does volunteer work teaching seniors English and helping high school students improve their English so they can get into an University here ( this is the big stumbling block for students as the Universities using English exam results as a main criterion for admission. Alan has an excellent grasp of the political and foreign issues here and it is a pleasure to talk and learn from him. He also studies Talmud with a group. He walked around and had lunch at Rimon on the fabulous Mamilla mall( because of the sculpture art not the high shops) , which has a wonderful vegetarian buffet. We got him on the light rail train going down the main street Jaffa now pedestrian only for his first time.
Sunday, June 2, 2013
May 29; Lunch with Ela Greenberg; Meet Ela at Paridisio. Ela is the daughter of my mentor at Michigan, G.R.Greenberg or Bob to everyone. He was an incredible scientist who should have gotten the Nobel prize for his work on the pathway for producing the purine base used in DNA and ATP. the energy converter in all cells. Anyway, his daughter made aliya , got her Ph.D. at Hebrew University with dissertation on education of girls during the the British mandate period and has been published as a book. Estelle (z''l) and I were good friends with her mother too. I visited Ela and family in 2008. She works for Rabbis for Human Rights as fund raiser and is passionate about justice or the lack of it for the Arabs in Israel and in the territories. Israel isn't perfect in many aspects and this is one of them. This organization gives lectures on Human Rights from a Torah and Rabbinical views to soldiers, students at many Universities, and a different sites by Rabbis from Conservative, Reform and even a few Orthodox rabbis. We had a very interesting discussions on many key issues. Her husband is a lawyer and their 2 daughters goes to a school with Jews and Arabs where the students learn Hebrew and Arabic. The students are really mixed and friends formed with all. Ela drives her daughters to many Arab areas for play dates. However in 6 th grade the kids split in separate schools.
Thursday, May 30, 2013
May 30 A trip to 3 sites involved with the 1948-9 war of Independence
We traveled with a group from PARDES to 3 sites involved with the Jerusalem battles starting in March 19948 2 months before Israel declared its Independence and Statehood on May 14, 1948. The Arabs had attached Jerusalem from 4 sides cutting off all road traffic from the west at Tel Aviv and all the Jewish towns to the west. This was the critical fight of the war because even though Jerusalem was going to be an International city under the UN agreement, which the Jews had accepted but the Arabs rejected, the survival of the 100,000 Jews in Jerusalem was paramount. The best the Israelis could hope for was a finger like projection of the west leading to Jerusalem. The planned to attack from 3 sides in stages to open a supply route intoo Jerusalem that was cut off for food and even water. The first attach was on a hill in the northwest area 3.5 miles from the Old City on a hill top Arab village called Nebi Samuel. This name means the site where the Prophet Samuel was buried or so the legend has it. The story begins actually in the Bible where many things happened on hill tops described in the Books of Samuel, Kings, Jeremiah, Macabees where Samuel, Saul, Jeremiah and Judas Macabee respectively all were all here identified perhaps by its height and and location to the Temple. So when the Crusaders came here in the 1099 traveling from Acco they fell to their knees and wept in joy. They built a fortress and had the bones they thought were Samuel's brought from Ramla near present day Tel Aviv brought here and reburied. Jews and Muslims still believed the tomb is Samuel's and the Sephardic Jews pray here 24/7. Muslims pray here also. There are ruins of a Arab village from 12 C have been uncovered. The Muslims destroyed the Crusader stuff and built a Mosque on the site , which was destroyed in 1917 in a big battle here between British and Turks that England won, starting the mandate period. To get good will of the local Arabs, England rebuilt the Mosque for the few families that lived here and in fact 20 Arab families still live here. They new Jewish towns are a few mile to the north. The Shas party of Sepharic Jews control many religious sites including this one.
Meanwhile in 1948, the Jews attacked here and lost the battle resulting in that this area although in West Jerusalem(!!) was in Arab hands till 1967!!
Second site was The Castel National Park located 10 miles due west of Jerusalem. So since Jerusalem couldn't be resupplied from the northwest, due west was the only option. Opening a supply route was critical and Ben Gurion gave the order that this hilltop, which once had been a French Crusader castle , hence name 'Castel'. Of course the Castle was long destroyed by the Muslims. Many Jews died taking and defending this hilltop over 5 days of fierce fighting. After this there were other battles to open a new road to bring in convoys that stretched 17 miles bringing food and water to Jerusalem, where people were starving and fighting at the same time. Before the road was finished 300 men carried heavy packs of food thru a goat trail 12 miles every night to supply Jerusalem. It was heroic times of truly Biblical dimensions.
The third site was 'Machal' , which stands for 'Volunteers from Abroad' not too far away which is an honorarium and memorial to the 4500 volunteer fighters that came from 49 countries to help Israel survive. Many died and about a hundred names are on a wall, including Roberta's camp counselor, Leonard Cohen (he didn't die). He was one of 40 men who made up the Navy of Israel. A big concrete memorial with the 3 letters of Machal in Hebrew in a flame shape representing a yahrzeit candle is in front. It was very moving to think that so many men who had fought in WW2 left their homes to come and fight again so the Jews could survive this war of Independence; but more importantly losing would have unleashed a second (or continuing?) genocide of Jews.
All in all in was a very informative and moving day and anyone who thinks miracles don't happen needs to rethink, of course many Jews had to die and get wounded ( 2% of the population ) for this miracle and the survival of the Jewish people of Israel to happen!!
We traveled with a group from PARDES to 3 sites involved with the Jerusalem battles starting in March 19948 2 months before Israel declared its Independence and Statehood on May 14, 1948. The Arabs had attached Jerusalem from 4 sides cutting off all road traffic from the west at Tel Aviv and all the Jewish towns to the west. This was the critical fight of the war because even though Jerusalem was going to be an International city under the UN agreement, which the Jews had accepted but the Arabs rejected, the survival of the 100,000 Jews in Jerusalem was paramount. The best the Israelis could hope for was a finger like projection of the west leading to Jerusalem. The planned to attack from 3 sides in stages to open a supply route intoo Jerusalem that was cut off for food and even water. The first attach was on a hill in the northwest area 3.5 miles from the Old City on a hill top Arab village called Nebi Samuel. This name means the site where the Prophet Samuel was buried or so the legend has it. The story begins actually in the Bible where many things happened on hill tops described in the Books of Samuel, Kings, Jeremiah, Macabees where Samuel, Saul, Jeremiah and Judas Macabee respectively all were all here identified perhaps by its height and and location to the Temple. So when the Crusaders came here in the 1099 traveling from Acco they fell to their knees and wept in joy. They built a fortress and had the bones they thought were Samuel's brought from Ramla near present day Tel Aviv brought here and reburied. Jews and Muslims still believed the tomb is Samuel's and the Sephardic Jews pray here 24/7. Muslims pray here also. There are ruins of a Arab village from 12 C have been uncovered. The Muslims destroyed the Crusader stuff and built a Mosque on the site , which was destroyed in 1917 in a big battle here between British and Turks that England won, starting the mandate period. To get good will of the local Arabs, England rebuilt the Mosque for the few families that lived here and in fact 20 Arab families still live here. They new Jewish towns are a few mile to the north. The Shas party of Sepharic Jews control many religious sites including this one.
Meanwhile in 1948, the Jews attacked here and lost the battle resulting in that this area although in West Jerusalem(!!) was in Arab hands till 1967!!
Second site was The Castel National Park located 10 miles due west of Jerusalem. So since Jerusalem couldn't be resupplied from the northwest, due west was the only option. Opening a supply route was critical and Ben Gurion gave the order that this hilltop, which once had been a French Crusader castle , hence name 'Castel'. Of course the Castle was long destroyed by the Muslims. Many Jews died taking and defending this hilltop over 5 days of fierce fighting. After this there were other battles to open a new road to bring in convoys that stretched 17 miles bringing food and water to Jerusalem, where people were starving and fighting at the same time. Before the road was finished 300 men carried heavy packs of food thru a goat trail 12 miles every night to supply Jerusalem. It was heroic times of truly Biblical dimensions.
The third site was 'Machal' , which stands for 'Volunteers from Abroad' not too far away which is an honorarium and memorial to the 4500 volunteer fighters that came from 49 countries to help Israel survive. Many died and about a hundred names are on a wall, including Roberta's camp counselor, Leonard Cohen (he didn't die). He was one of 40 men who made up the Navy of Israel. A big concrete memorial with the 3 letters of Machal in Hebrew in a flame shape representing a yahrzeit candle is in front. It was very moving to think that so many men who had fought in WW2 left their homes to come and fight again so the Jews could survive this war of Independence; but more importantly losing would have unleashed a second (or continuing?) genocide of Jews.
All in all in was a very informative and moving day and anyone who thinks miracles don't happen needs to rethink, of course many Jews had to die and get wounded ( 2% of the population ) for this miracle and the survival of the Jewish people of Israel to happen!!
May 26 sunday. Day at Weizmann Institute in Rehovot. We took #434 bus from Jerusalem to Rehovot that takes 45 minutes and then walked 30 minutes to entrance. You have to show passport to get thru security. I went into first building which was an administration building to get some literature ( none exist all only on web) but saw a screen with seminar topics and time. One on stem cells was starting in 2 minutes. We walked quickly to correct building saW SOME gREAT FOOD AND GOOBLED DOWN SOMETHINGS AND WENT IN TO HEAR PROf. BLAU FORM OF ALL PLACES, STANFORD. SHE GAVE AN INCREDIBLE TALK ON 4 DIFFEReNT AREA ALL BREAK THRU RESULTS. UNFORTUNATELY ROBERTA COULDn't FOLLOW ONLY SMALL AMOUNT AND AFTER TRIES TO FILL HER IN TO KEY CONCEPTS. WE THEN WENT TO LUNCH AT VISITOR CENTER AN HAD GREAT BUSINESS MENS SPECIAL , THAT is WHAT LUNCH DEALs are CALLED, OF SEA BREAM ON CHICKPEAS THAT WAS Delicious. IT CAME WITH THE SALAD BAR, FILLED WITH UNUSUAL Israeli salads. Then Prof. Blau an her Israeli hosts cam and sat next to us. so we introduced ourselves to her. Roberta remarked she has 2 degrees from Stanford.
We then went to the Visitor Center for some really high tech stuff. You touch a red laser beam with your hand and then by raising your hand still the red beam on it, you control the image that goes from start to finish showing some scientific something. The several scientists talked about their discoveries including the woman who got Nobel prize in 2009 on working structure of the ribosome.
We then walked to Weizmann's House that was built in 1936-7 by architect Erich Mendelsohn who also designed B'nai Amoona in 1948-9(?). It is a very large modern home with the same round windows B'nai Amoona had. When he became the first President of Israel it became the official residence. After he died in 1952 and after his widow Vera died it became a museum with all their furniture and art intact. Dr. Weizmann had 120 patents and made a key contribution to the English war effort in WW1 by making an economical process for production of acetone used for explosives. Incredibly while at Manchester university he became friends with Lord Balfour and Lord George who later became Prime Minister and issued the famous Balfour Declaration granting the Jews a homeland in Palestine without exactly spelling out any details. He became friends with all leading figures including Harry Truman who he meet at a critical time obtaining American support.
Weizmann was one of those very rare individuals who could do it all, science,
diplomacy, government, and creation and head of several key Zionist organization. They lost one of their 2 sons in combat in the Independence War.
We then walked back by several very unusual designed buildings and ran in a friendly guy, Dr. Tsvee Lepidot who turned out to be Head of Stem cell research. He told us about the stain on several buildings that I couldn't identify but was made a bats that are very numerous in Israel,all fruit eating.
Taking the bus back from the Rehovot bus station we were home in 1.5 hours for a great day.
We then went to the Visitor Center for some really high tech stuff. You touch a red laser beam with your hand and then by raising your hand still the red beam on it, you control the image that goes from start to finish showing some scientific something. The several scientists talked about their discoveries including the woman who got Nobel prize in 2009 on working structure of the ribosome.
We then walked to Weizmann's House that was built in 1936-7 by architect Erich Mendelsohn who also designed B'nai Amoona in 1948-9(?). It is a very large modern home with the same round windows B'nai Amoona had. When he became the first President of Israel it became the official residence. After he died in 1952 and after his widow Vera died it became a museum with all their furniture and art intact. Dr. Weizmann had 120 patents and made a key contribution to the English war effort in WW1 by making an economical process for production of acetone used for explosives. Incredibly while at Manchester university he became friends with Lord Balfour and Lord George who later became Prime Minister and issued the famous Balfour Declaration granting the Jews a homeland in Palestine without exactly spelling out any details. He became friends with all leading figures including Harry Truman who he meet at a critical time obtaining American support.
Weizmann was one of those very rare individuals who could do it all, science,
diplomacy, government, and creation and head of several key Zionist organization. They lost one of their 2 sons in combat in the Independence War.
We then walked back by several very unusual designed buildings and ran in a friendly guy, Dr. Tsvee Lepidot who turned out to be Head of Stem cell research. He told us about the stain on several buildings that I couldn't identify but was made a bats that are very numerous in Israel,all fruit eating.
Taking the bus back from the Rehovot bus station we were home in 1.5 hours for a great day.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
April 15 to May 30, 2013: OUR 8 (OF 10) CLASSES
Mondays at PARDES INSTITUTE OF JEWISH STUDIES, a modern orthodox approach to learning for adults (like us--no tests, no papers, etc.) and also for serious 1 year study. Men and women study together in a very friendly in-depth manner.
Our teacher for both Monday morning classes is Rabbi Reuven Grodner, a student of Rabbi Soloveitchik, one of the great orthodox rabbi/scholar/teachers of the twentieth century.
9am: the World of Nachmanides aka Ramban--grandson of Maimonides. His greatest strength was bringing together all sorts of sources both the literal and mystical,. He lived in the 1200s in Spain, Acco, and Jerusalem,. One of the texts we studied was a letter to his son which is probably the earliest example of an ethical will. We also study his comments on the weekly Torah portion.
11am. Talmudic Personalities--there are so many I'm glad I didn't have to choose only 6. Most of these are from the period of the Mishna from 100 to 250 CE
Thursday at Pardes
9am: "What's Above and What's Ahead" views of God, angels, prophets, messiah and afterlife, and next week resurrection which we will miss. Source is mostly Talmud. Teacher is Rabbi David Levine-Krauss, our first Rabbi from the UK, where it is said, "it is assumed a UK rabbi is 25% smarter than others just because of his accent! " He likes to sit and discuss at a desk (table) with his legs in the lotus position. Fascinating.
11am. "Great Modern Zionist Thinkers" with historian David Bernstein PhD. We read and discuss original sources by Herzl, Achad Ha'Am, Chaim Weizmann, Jabotinsky, and Rav Kook. These men had different world experience, attitudes, and approaches to the establishment of a Jewish Nation for the first time in almost 2000 years.
Tuesday and Wednesday at The Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center for Conservative (Meaning save and conserve not right wing) Judaism, Project Oded COntinuing Education. They also have a year-long study program for serious learners preparing for rabbinate of careers in Jewish education.
Tuesday 9am:
Minor Prophets emphasizing the book of Malachi in the Hebrew Bible. Taught by Rabbi Gail Diamond (Reconstructionist Movement) very knowledgeable. Stan took a course with her on psalms in the yeshiva (year-long serious part) in 2008. we analyze the text very carefully sometimes covering 1 paragraph in 1 1/2 hours.
Tuesday 11am:
Analyzing the Torah portion of the week with Rabbi Edward Rom--we look at various Talmudic sources and discuss relevance to our times. You may have noticed this is the second course with this title. It is amazing that there is often no overlap or repetition as there are so many possible interpretations. Talmudic, medieval, and modern rabbis can find similar as well as unique things to think about.
Wednesday 9am:
9am: "From God's Mouth? The evolution of oral law from Talmud through Modern Times." with Rabbi Sid Slivko. There is a long legal tradition in Jewish thought and action--includes court procedures, case-law, and simply discussions with decisions based on majority but a report including the minority opinion.
The purpose of the class is to learn about the transition from the law of the Hebrew Bible to the oral law wh/ is accumulated wisdom and stories compiled by Judah HaNasi in 150 CE and written down over the next 300 years in the Galilli (in Israel) and separately in Babylon (present day Iraq).
Many rabbis gave opinions about an issue as if they were all seated at the same table. Yet they could have lived 300 years apart.
10:45: Development and Archeology of Synagogues outside of Israel 200-500 CE. Sardis, Turkey, had the largest ancient synagogue with room for 1000 people. It's 3 times larger than any ancient synagogue known in Israel.
We also studied Herod the Great (ruled 34-4 BCE) and went to an exhibit about him and the archeologic finding of his tomb (2008).
Instructor is an Dr. Stephen Rosenberg, lawyer turned archeologist--also has a UK accent. He probably is 25% smarter than anyone else.
Mondays at PARDES INSTITUTE OF JEWISH STUDIES, a modern orthodox approach to learning for adults (like us--no tests, no papers, etc.) and also for serious 1 year study. Men and women study together in a very friendly in-depth manner.
Our teacher for both Monday morning classes is Rabbi Reuven Grodner, a student of Rabbi Soloveitchik, one of the great orthodox rabbi/scholar/teachers of the twentieth century.
9am: the World of Nachmanides aka Ramban--grandson of Maimonides. His greatest strength was bringing together all sorts of sources both the literal and mystical,. He lived in the 1200s in Spain, Acco, and Jerusalem,. One of the texts we studied was a letter to his son which is probably the earliest example of an ethical will. We also study his comments on the weekly Torah portion.
11am. Talmudic Personalities--there are so many I'm glad I didn't have to choose only 6. Most of these are from the period of the Mishna from 100 to 250 CE
Thursday at Pardes
9am: "What's Above and What's Ahead" views of God, angels, prophets, messiah and afterlife, and next week resurrection which we will miss. Source is mostly Talmud. Teacher is Rabbi David Levine-Krauss, our first Rabbi from the UK, where it is said, "it is assumed a UK rabbi is 25% smarter than others just because of his accent! " He likes to sit and discuss at a desk (table) with his legs in the lotus position. Fascinating.
11am. "Great Modern Zionist Thinkers" with historian David Bernstein PhD. We read and discuss original sources by Herzl, Achad Ha'Am, Chaim Weizmann, Jabotinsky, and Rav Kook. These men had different world experience, attitudes, and approaches to the establishment of a Jewish Nation for the first time in almost 2000 years.
Tuesday and Wednesday at The Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center for Conservative (Meaning save and conserve not right wing) Judaism, Project Oded COntinuing Education. They also have a year-long study program for serious learners preparing for rabbinate of careers in Jewish education.
Tuesday 9am:
Minor Prophets emphasizing the book of Malachi in the Hebrew Bible. Taught by Rabbi Gail Diamond (Reconstructionist Movement) very knowledgeable. Stan took a course with her on psalms in the yeshiva (year-long serious part) in 2008. we analyze the text very carefully sometimes covering 1 paragraph in 1 1/2 hours.
Tuesday 11am:
Analyzing the Torah portion of the week with Rabbi Edward Rom--we look at various Talmudic sources and discuss relevance to our times. You may have noticed this is the second course with this title. It is amazing that there is often no overlap or repetition as there are so many possible interpretations. Talmudic, medieval, and modern rabbis can find similar as well as unique things to think about.
Wednesday 9am:
9am: "From God's Mouth? The evolution of oral law from Talmud through Modern Times." with Rabbi Sid Slivko. There is a long legal tradition in Jewish thought and action--includes court procedures, case-law, and simply discussions with decisions based on majority but a report including the minority opinion.
The purpose of the class is to learn about the transition from the law of the Hebrew Bible to the oral law wh/ is accumulated wisdom and stories compiled by Judah HaNasi in 150 CE and written down over the next 300 years in the Galilli (in Israel) and separately in Babylon (present day Iraq).
Many rabbis gave opinions about an issue as if they were all seated at the same table. Yet they could have lived 300 years apart.
10:45: Development and Archeology of Synagogues outside of Israel 200-500 CE. Sardis, Turkey, had the largest ancient synagogue with room for 1000 people. It's 3 times larger than any ancient synagogue known in Israel.
We also studied Herod the Great (ruled 34-4 BCE) and went to an exhibit about him and the archeologic finding of his tomb (2008).
Instructor is an Dr. Stephen Rosenberg, lawyer turned archeologist--also has a UK accent. He probably is 25% smarter than anyone else.
May 25, 2013 A MUSICAL WEEK
TUESDAY, May 21: Piano Recital at Jerusalem Academy of Music and Dance, Hebrew University Givat Ram campus, the new campus started in 1948 when the original university on Mount Scopus was captured by the Arabs. This campus now contains all the science departments.
After security, where we had to show our passports in order to enter the campus, we saw a large number of people in front of one building. So we went to investigate and found a lot of young people each carrying a long-stemmed rose,, obviously graduating. In celebration of the graduation the university had several tables filled with delicious pastries for the guests and us. There was also fresh lemonade with mint.
Being refreshed we continued walking to the Conservatory where a 17 year-old child prodigy, Ariel Lanyi, performed Bach English Suite No. 5 in E MINOR, Franck Prelude, Choral, and Fugue, and Schumann Davidsbuendlertaenze Op.6, as well as an encore by Debussy. All 75 minutes were by heart.
It was all excellently played. My favorite was the Schumann which the composer and his friends felt unsuitable for public performance because of its frequent alterations of mood--"from passionate and energetic to shy and dreamy." It seems to me that this presages his symptoms of bipolar disorder before such swings became uncontrollable.
Ariel is also a violinist, composer, and jazz performer acc to the Jerusalem Post--www.youtube.com/arielpiano.
Wednesday, May 22; JERUSALEM Symphony Orchestra . Theme of the concert was The Seasons and showcased both Verdi and VIvaldi's Four Seasons. Th e former was composed as an opera ballet in Paris where it was understood every opera had to have a ballet in the third act whether appropriate of not. The Vivaldi was played by two 14 or 15 piece orchestra, many players standing, led by 1 of the 2 co-concertmistresses; very charming.. the concert ended with Copeland's Appalachian Spring.
Thursday, May 23: Piano recital by Garrick Ohlsson (lives in San FRANcisco). He is justly world famous. He played Beethven Sonata no.15 in Dmajor, op 28, Schubert Wanderer Fantasy, Lubica Cekovska (born 1976) Four Movements (modern and lovely), and Chopin Fantasy in Fminor, op.49 and Scherzo No. 2 in B flat minor, op. 31; he is considered a major interpreter of Chopin and is the only American to win the Chopin International Piano Competition (1970). Encore was the most beautifully played Waltz in C sharp minor. Maybe some of you heard him at Santa Rosa Junior College 7 or 8 years ago?
Friday May 24 Noon: Handel's Esther (an oratorio) . The performance was part of the Israel Festival. It had 5 soloists including a counter tenor as the high priest, a wonderful New Israeli Vocal Ensemble and the Barrocade Collective (small orchestra with several baroque instruments). Claire Meghnagi sang a marvelous Esther,. Of course Handel never sticks entirely to the Book. Ie no high priest in the original story. This was his first oratorio in English and you can hear shades of what's to come in Solomon and in The Messiah.
By the way, the ISrael has 32 events over 29 days in various venues. There is dance, jazz, gospel, and more; performers come from all over the world.
Saturday, May25: If we have energy tonight and if there are tickets we will hear Ester Rada, a very famous and beloved Israeli popular singer of Ethiopian descent (I may have this wrong)
NOT TOO BAD--4 CONCERTS IN 4 DAYS--WHAT FUN IN JERUSALEM!
TUESDAY, May 21: Piano Recital at Jerusalem Academy of Music and Dance, Hebrew University Givat Ram campus, the new campus started in 1948 when the original university on Mount Scopus was captured by the Arabs. This campus now contains all the science departments.
After security, where we had to show our passports in order to enter the campus, we saw a large number of people in front of one building. So we went to investigate and found a lot of young people each carrying a long-stemmed rose,, obviously graduating. In celebration of the graduation the university had several tables filled with delicious pastries for the guests and us. There was also fresh lemonade with mint.
Being refreshed we continued walking to the Conservatory where a 17 year-old child prodigy, Ariel Lanyi, performed Bach English Suite No. 5 in E MINOR, Franck Prelude, Choral, and Fugue, and Schumann Davidsbuendlertaenze Op.6, as well as an encore by Debussy. All 75 minutes were by heart.
It was all excellently played. My favorite was the Schumann which the composer and his friends felt unsuitable for public performance because of its frequent alterations of mood--"from passionate and energetic to shy and dreamy." It seems to me that this presages his symptoms of bipolar disorder before such swings became uncontrollable.
Ariel is also a violinist, composer, and jazz performer acc to the Jerusalem Post--www.youtube.com/arielpiano.
Wednesday, May 22; JERUSALEM Symphony Orchestra . Theme of the concert was The Seasons and showcased both Verdi and VIvaldi's Four Seasons. Th e former was composed as an opera ballet in Paris where it was understood every opera had to have a ballet in the third act whether appropriate of not. The Vivaldi was played by two 14 or 15 piece orchestra, many players standing, led by 1 of the 2 co-concertmistresses; very charming.. the concert ended with Copeland's Appalachian Spring.
Thursday, May 23: Piano recital by Garrick Ohlsson (lives in San FRANcisco). He is justly world famous. He played Beethven Sonata no.15 in Dmajor, op 28, Schubert Wanderer Fantasy, Lubica Cekovska (born 1976) Four Movements (modern and lovely), and Chopin Fantasy in Fminor, op.49 and Scherzo No. 2 in B flat minor, op. 31; he is considered a major interpreter of Chopin and is the only American to win the Chopin International Piano Competition (1970). Encore was the most beautifully played Waltz in C sharp minor. Maybe some of you heard him at Santa Rosa Junior College 7 or 8 years ago?
Friday May 24 Noon: Handel's Esther (an oratorio) . The performance was part of the Israel Festival. It had 5 soloists including a counter tenor as the high priest, a wonderful New Israeli Vocal Ensemble and the Barrocade Collective (small orchestra with several baroque instruments). Claire Meghnagi sang a marvelous Esther,. Of course Handel never sticks entirely to the Book. Ie no high priest in the original story. This was his first oratorio in English and you can hear shades of what's to come in Solomon and in The Messiah.
By the way, the ISrael has 32 events over 29 days in various venues. There is dance, jazz, gospel, and more; performers come from all over the world.
Saturday, May25: If we have energy tonight and if there are tickets we will hear Ester Rada, a very famous and beloved Israeli popular singer of Ethiopian descent (I may have this wrong)
NOT TOO BAD--4 CONCERTS IN 4 DAYS--WHAT FUN IN JERUSALEM!
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
MAY 16; Go to new musical comedy entitled 'Oh Jerusalem' at Beit Shmuel just a couple of blocks away. It was very funny with good singing, dancing and just fun. In English of course
May 19: Go to Tel Aviv area for the day. Take bus to Central Bus Station in Tev Aviv #405 only 50 minutes away. Then walk to area we have not been to before called Neve Tzedek about a mile away. Walked thru area with many Africans who live and work in this area then thru the Levinsky marketarea with colorful spice shops. Neve Tzedek was the first area outside the walls of Jaffa to be built by Jews. The history of how things get done is usually the history of one outstanding family and that is the case here too. The Rokach Family was the outstanding family here.
The materal grandfather came to Palestine in 1832 from Ukraine and started a printing press in Safat in the north. he supported 30 families working here. In 1834 Druze riots destroyed the press.The Egyptians then ruled here and Ibrahim Pasha to put the riots who pillaged Safat. He got malaria and the grandfather a holy Rabbi and printer cured him. In return the grandfather Rabbi got a land on Mt. Meron on which he became the first Jewish farmer in modern times. He raised goats and herbs aand got other Jews from noe deserted Safat to start farming too. These were the 'First Pioneers' and in 1836 he restarted the printing in Safat. Good luck was very short lived as the big earthquake of 1837 destroyed the town. In 1841 he Turks take over again and cancelled his land lease, so the family moved to Jerusalem and started the print press business there. they published a newspaper for 41 years the Hachgvetzelet', the Hasidic Journal. His son did well and his son Shimon was sent in 1880's to Jaffa to start a system of collecting tolls on the jaffa -Jerusalem road which took 12 hours by carriage.
Jaffa was so crowded and unhealthy Shimon decided to build a new community outside the walls of Jaffa. He bought some sand dunes and drew lots from among eager buyers for the first 10 lots. Each winner had to remove 100 buckets of sand , dirt rocks each night!! these were hardy men. They designed the streets very narrow as in the old style but added very modern features with a privy and kitchen in each courtyard instead of having both communal as was the custom at that time. Construction in 1887. The men had to protect their homes from the Arabs from start of construction.
Tel Aviv started in 1906 further north and away from Jaffa after they saw how successful a new community could be. They changed the style to bigger homes, wider streets and with more park areas partly due to safety issuses less critical now.
Shimon and family formed the first Jewish Fruit business breaking the Arab monopoly on fruit exporting by winning a contract with British shipping company. Shimon's son Israel Kokach became Mayor of Tel Aviv from 1937 to 1953 very important years for the cities growth.
Meanwhile ahead to the the 60 or 70's the area is now in total disrepair because the narrow streets and poor people let the place deteriate. Now grandaughter Leo Majaro-Mintz aa well known artist see her old grandpas house in near ruins, decides to fix it up her self and next thing the whole area is fixed up and is beautiful with really unique narrow streets , old trees and quaint houses.
She is 885 and lives in the third floor and he art work is allover. They put now plays on the 2 nd floor about the time of 1900's in song. A very interesting home and neighborhood. The Gutman Museum was closed though guide book said it open. The Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre is a few blocks away and is on the grounds of an old school. It is very pretty area but we couldn't see any of the theatres and any rehearsals. A block away was Suzanna restaurant where we had a nice lunch under a big tree.
We then walked toward Jaffa along the boardwalk and came to the Etzel Museum.This building is on the ruins of a building that Etzel used to attack and rescue Jaffa in the Independence war of 1948. Etzel was a separate fighting force that fought against the British previously with terror tactics. But here they fought very bravely and ignored their commander orders to retreat but instead attacked and eventually won by going thru the walls of homes from one to the next instead of fighting out in the open house to house. The overall battle was very important as if the Arabs controlled Jaffa and its port the Egyptian could resupply their troops and attack Tel Aviv basically 1 mole away. The museum building has the destroyed bottom half and glass as the main part of the building. It is very interesting and the museum discuss the Altelena affair where Begin who was head of Etzel at that time refuses to give the order top fight back when the regular army under Ben Gurion has his men fire on the ship loaded with munitions and causes 9 Etzel men to die. Yet Begin said this was the hardest thing he ever had to do but his most important as he was not going to have Jew fighting Jew no matter what. The captain of the ship Abe Fine was described by Begin in his autobiography as the bravest man he ever new, had to leave Israel after the wart as all Etzel were on the wrong side, went to Chicago became me a lawyer and his widow and son live in our area and we know the as part of the Russian River Jewish be belong to.
We walked around Jaffa, saw some neat art in old buildings and then took #18 bus from Jaffa all the way thru the Tel Aviv to the Arlozloff bus terminal for quick ride on #480 to Jerualem and in 1.5 hr. we walked into our door.
What a great day
May 19: Go to Tel Aviv area for the day. Take bus to Central Bus Station in Tev Aviv #405 only 50 minutes away. Then walk to area we have not been to before called Neve Tzedek about a mile away. Walked thru area with many Africans who live and work in this area then thru the Levinsky marketarea with colorful spice shops. Neve Tzedek was the first area outside the walls of Jaffa to be built by Jews. The history of how things get done is usually the history of one outstanding family and that is the case here too. The Rokach Family was the outstanding family here.
The materal grandfather came to Palestine in 1832 from Ukraine and started a printing press in Safat in the north. he supported 30 families working here. In 1834 Druze riots destroyed the press.The Egyptians then ruled here and Ibrahim Pasha to put the riots who pillaged Safat. He got malaria and the grandfather a holy Rabbi and printer cured him. In return the grandfather Rabbi got a land on Mt. Meron on which he became the first Jewish farmer in modern times. He raised goats and herbs aand got other Jews from noe deserted Safat to start farming too. These were the 'First Pioneers' and in 1836 he restarted the printing in Safat. Good luck was very short lived as the big earthquake of 1837 destroyed the town. In 1841 he Turks take over again and cancelled his land lease, so the family moved to Jerusalem and started the print press business there. they published a newspaper for 41 years the Hachgvetzelet', the Hasidic Journal. His son did well and his son Shimon was sent in 1880's to Jaffa to start a system of collecting tolls on the jaffa -Jerusalem road which took 12 hours by carriage.
Jaffa was so crowded and unhealthy Shimon decided to build a new community outside the walls of Jaffa. He bought some sand dunes and drew lots from among eager buyers for the first 10 lots. Each winner had to remove 100 buckets of sand , dirt rocks each night!! these were hardy men. They designed the streets very narrow as in the old style but added very modern features with a privy and kitchen in each courtyard instead of having both communal as was the custom at that time. Construction in 1887. The men had to protect their homes from the Arabs from start of construction.
Tel Aviv started in 1906 further north and away from Jaffa after they saw how successful a new community could be. They changed the style to bigger homes, wider streets and with more park areas partly due to safety issuses less critical now.
Shimon and family formed the first Jewish Fruit business breaking the Arab monopoly on fruit exporting by winning a contract with British shipping company. Shimon's son Israel Kokach became Mayor of Tel Aviv from 1937 to 1953 very important years for the cities growth.
Meanwhile ahead to the the 60 or 70's the area is now in total disrepair because the narrow streets and poor people let the place deteriate. Now grandaughter Leo Majaro-Mintz aa well known artist see her old grandpas house in near ruins, decides to fix it up her self and next thing the whole area is fixed up and is beautiful with really unique narrow streets , old trees and quaint houses.
She is 885 and lives in the third floor and he art work is allover. They put now plays on the 2 nd floor about the time of 1900's in song. A very interesting home and neighborhood. The Gutman Museum was closed though guide book said it open. The Suzanne Dellal Centre for Dance and Theatre is a few blocks away and is on the grounds of an old school. It is very pretty area but we couldn't see any of the theatres and any rehearsals. A block away was Suzanna restaurant where we had a nice lunch under a big tree.
We then walked toward Jaffa along the boardwalk and came to the Etzel Museum.This building is on the ruins of a building that Etzel used to attack and rescue Jaffa in the Independence war of 1948. Etzel was a separate fighting force that fought against the British previously with terror tactics. But here they fought very bravely and ignored their commander orders to retreat but instead attacked and eventually won by going thru the walls of homes from one to the next instead of fighting out in the open house to house. The overall battle was very important as if the Arabs controlled Jaffa and its port the Egyptian could resupply their troops and attack Tel Aviv basically 1 mole away. The museum building has the destroyed bottom half and glass as the main part of the building. It is very interesting and the museum discuss the Altelena affair where Begin who was head of Etzel at that time refuses to give the order top fight back when the regular army under Ben Gurion has his men fire on the ship loaded with munitions and causes 9 Etzel men to die. Yet Begin said this was the hardest thing he ever had to do but his most important as he was not going to have Jew fighting Jew no matter what. The captain of the ship Abe Fine was described by Begin in his autobiography as the bravest man he ever new, had to leave Israel after the wart as all Etzel were on the wrong side, went to Chicago became me a lawyer and his widow and son live in our area and we know the as part of the Russian River Jewish be belong to.
We walked around Jaffa, saw some neat art in old buildings and then took #18 bus from Jaffa all the way thru the Tel Aviv to the Arlozloff bus terminal for quick ride on #480 to Jerualem and in 1.5 hr. we walked into our door.
What a great day
Friday, May 17, 2013
May 9 to 12; Trip to North of Israel;
Fun leaving Jerusalem. Rent carat 2pm. Rental has no cars, wait till 4pm, get car, head out in middle of rush hour, take 1 hr to go 2 miles till reach highway. stay calm. Drive to Zikhron Ya'akov,a beautiful town south of Haifa that has a very neat central street closed off to traffic filled with restaurants and shops, and museums. We meet Roberta and her sister's friend Jeff Finger a friend from Palo Alto. He lives in a town house behind the house where Sarah Aaronson was tortured by the Turks in 1915 for being a spy for the British , which was true since her family started a spy ring. After several days of torture he got them top take her to her house a block away to change clothe so she die in clean clothes. As soon as she enter the front door she open a secret compartment grab a gun and shot her self. Her brother and a friend were torture and killed without revealing the names of their entire spy ring. Their effort did help the British easily defeat the Turks in 1917. The house is in very bad shape as a squatter lives there and the family can't get him out. Anyway the view form Jeff place down the valley is very beautiful. We had dinner sitting outside, he works for Google traveling to Tel Aviv and Haifa 2 days each per week. His wife and 4 years daughter are very nice.
Then of to our lodging, Nes Ammim between Acco and Nahariya, which I found online as reasonable, very pretty, in right location near the northern boarder.I assumed it was moshav or kibbutz, that frequently have guess resort like lodges. On mentioning with cousin Shimshon, he informed that no this what you thought, but i a Christian lodge! and is quite nice and even KOSHER. It turns out that in 1963 some Swiss and Dutch Christians being bad about the Holocaust decide to come to Israel and help build up the land and improve Jewish- Christian relations. They depend( still) on volunteers to start farming and build the lodge. after 50 years they are very successful in farming with roses for export to Europe and also avocados. Now they are working on Arab-Jewish relations and are building a new village on converted farmland for mixed Arab Israeli house development. The grounds are very pretty with plants from all over the world and also of ancient Israel. They have a synagogue with Torah and a large group came Friday morning from Hillel at a college with very religious young kids all very fit and movie star looks or else character actor like. Breakfast was good and a very pleasant place. Most Jews were staying but we talked a Christian couple from Vancouver and they had a lecture on Shavot as that is one of their goals to explain Judaism to Christians. from them. Incredible several of the founders kids converted to Judaism after learning about it firsthand.
Friday, we off to Baha'i Founder's shrine and gardens just north of Acco. Their second prophet Baha'u'llah and really the founder lived here from 1879 till he died in 1892 and is buried here. His shrine is the holiest place on earth for Baha'is and so holy no Baha'i lives in Israel thought they make pilmagridage often. we had to take off our shoes and not speak inside the shrine. The gardens are magnificent. Their prayers are directed to this location world wide. The first prophet was killed in Iran in 1850 as a heretic.
Next was Rosh Hanika right on the northern boarded with Lebanon which has grottos or caves under the mountain formed by waves eating away at the soft limestone. You take a cable car ride down the mountain to the entrance to paths leading to the grottos or underground caves with giant waves coming inside the mountain and very pretty with blue-green water. First you go into a tunnel that had railroad tracts on it which i couldn't figure out. They show a movie on the geology of the grotto and also on the tunnel railroad tracts. In 1943 the English decided to build a rail line for Haifa to Beirut and farther north that would go from \cario to Turkey and hence to Europe. The New Zealand and South African engineers in one year built 2 tunnels thru the mountain and a bridge. This line function in 1944-5 helping to move supplies back and forth and even bring survivors to Palestine. However in 1947 a war was starting and Haifa was under attack already, the Jews were worried that the Lebanese would use to bring stuff to resupply their forces,so the Hagana slipped in one night under the British guards noses and blew up the bridge. Maybe one day it will be rebuilt when peace does come to this area. It was very pretty walking underground to see various caves with crashing waves coming in.
In one cave we saw to guys holding a bed sheet with Hebrew writing on it standing on the side hidden. I asked the nest person coming down to take our picture, but he replied just a minute. He then brought his girl friend to to the guys with the sheet were, got down on his knee and opened a engagement ring box and asked her to marry him. Their friends all ran down yelling and Roberta and I started them on Simin Tof and Mazel Tof. It was quite a sweet sight. After all the commotion was over, I went over and apologized for interrupting his plan. He was very gracious said no problem and Ok now I'll take your picture.
We then went to the seaside town of Naharya a cute small town with a very pleasant boardwalk promenade where he ate lunch looking out on the Mediterranean Sea.
We went back to Nes Ammim and Stan went to Friday night services with the college kids who in Israel are 25----30 year old after army service and travel years to unwind.
What a great day!!
Fun leaving Jerusalem. Rent carat 2pm. Rental has no cars, wait till 4pm, get car, head out in middle of rush hour, take 1 hr to go 2 miles till reach highway. stay calm. Drive to Zikhron Ya'akov,a beautiful town south of Haifa that has a very neat central street closed off to traffic filled with restaurants and shops, and museums. We meet Roberta and her sister's friend Jeff Finger a friend from Palo Alto. He lives in a town house behind the house where Sarah Aaronson was tortured by the Turks in 1915 for being a spy for the British , which was true since her family started a spy ring. After several days of torture he got them top take her to her house a block away to change clothe so she die in clean clothes. As soon as she enter the front door she open a secret compartment grab a gun and shot her self. Her brother and a friend were torture and killed without revealing the names of their entire spy ring. Their effort did help the British easily defeat the Turks in 1917. The house is in very bad shape as a squatter lives there and the family can't get him out. Anyway the view form Jeff place down the valley is very beautiful. We had dinner sitting outside, he works for Google traveling to Tel Aviv and Haifa 2 days each per week. His wife and 4 years daughter are very nice.
Then of to our lodging, Nes Ammim between Acco and Nahariya, which I found online as reasonable, very pretty, in right location near the northern boarder.I assumed it was moshav or kibbutz, that frequently have guess resort like lodges. On mentioning with cousin Shimshon, he informed that no this what you thought, but i a Christian lodge! and is quite nice and even KOSHER. It turns out that in 1963 some Swiss and Dutch Christians being bad about the Holocaust decide to come to Israel and help build up the land and improve Jewish- Christian relations. They depend( still) on volunteers to start farming and build the lodge. after 50 years they are very successful in farming with roses for export to Europe and also avocados. Now they are working on Arab-Jewish relations and are building a new village on converted farmland for mixed Arab Israeli house development. The grounds are very pretty with plants from all over the world and also of ancient Israel. They have a synagogue with Torah and a large group came Friday morning from Hillel at a college with very religious young kids all very fit and movie star looks or else character actor like. Breakfast was good and a very pleasant place. Most Jews were staying but we talked a Christian couple from Vancouver and they had a lecture on Shavot as that is one of their goals to explain Judaism to Christians. from them. Incredible several of the founders kids converted to Judaism after learning about it firsthand.
Friday, we off to Baha'i Founder's shrine and gardens just north of Acco. Their second prophet Baha'u'llah and really the founder lived here from 1879 till he died in 1892 and is buried here. His shrine is the holiest place on earth for Baha'is and so holy no Baha'i lives in Israel thought they make pilmagridage often. we had to take off our shoes and not speak inside the shrine. The gardens are magnificent. Their prayers are directed to this location world wide. The first prophet was killed in Iran in 1850 as a heretic.
Next was Rosh Hanika right on the northern boarded with Lebanon which has grottos or caves under the mountain formed by waves eating away at the soft limestone. You take a cable car ride down the mountain to the entrance to paths leading to the grottos or underground caves with giant waves coming inside the mountain and very pretty with blue-green water. First you go into a tunnel that had railroad tracts on it which i couldn't figure out. They show a movie on the geology of the grotto and also on the tunnel railroad tracts. In 1943 the English decided to build a rail line for Haifa to Beirut and farther north that would go from \cario to Turkey and hence to Europe. The New Zealand and South African engineers in one year built 2 tunnels thru the mountain and a bridge. This line function in 1944-5 helping to move supplies back and forth and even bring survivors to Palestine. However in 1947 a war was starting and Haifa was under attack already, the Jews were worried that the Lebanese would use to bring stuff to resupply their forces,so the Hagana slipped in one night under the British guards noses and blew up the bridge. Maybe one day it will be rebuilt when peace does come to this area. It was very pretty walking underground to see various caves with crashing waves coming in.
In one cave we saw to guys holding a bed sheet with Hebrew writing on it standing on the side hidden. I asked the nest person coming down to take our picture, but he replied just a minute. He then brought his girl friend to to the guys with the sheet were, got down on his knee and opened a engagement ring box and asked her to marry him. Their friends all ran down yelling and Roberta and I started them on Simin Tof and Mazel Tof. It was quite a sweet sight. After all the commotion was over, I went over and apologized for interrupting his plan. He was very gracious said no problem and Ok now I'll take your picture.
We then went to the seaside town of Naharya a cute small town with a very pleasant boardwalk promenade where he ate lunch looking out on the Mediterranean Sea.
We went back to Nes Ammim and Stan went to Friday night services with the college kids who in Israel are 25----30 year old after army service and travel years to unwind.
What a great day!!
May 11; Go to Acco to see neat site of Crusader buildings & vaults, big halls, and emergence tunnel ( let's escape while we can, the Arabs are getting close!). Very crowded so park outside ancient walls, Built by Ahmed el Jazzar, whose moniker was 'The Butcher' which he earned. Didn't see all as need to go to Haifa.
Visit with Nomi, relative from ex,s family that Roberta was always friendly with. Got lost finding he condo despite my handwritten map from Google, which made it look so easy. After 30 min found someone who could help. Her son Oded we visited in 2009 in Arad where he conducts tours of the desert that we went on. He now makes jewelery and lives in Mizpa Jericho ( this is real desert living). Nomi is 85 and is a lovely lady and we went to her favorite restaurant in a Druze village Osafiya about 5 miles south of Haifa past the University of Haifa. The village was bustling with secular Jews from Haifa coming for a good meal on Shabbat. The portions were enormous. Roberta's veal actually lasted for 2 more meals for both of us. Mine just one meal. They brought salads for the 3 of us and despite my best efforts for them to bring for only one, they brought 10 plates of different salads for 3. Each cost 29 shelkels or about $9. we also bought some sweets which were great.
We got lost getting out of Haifa but after leaving the mountain ,it was smooth riding back to Nes Ammim.
May 12; First stop is the Lochamei Hageta'ot Kibbutz and their Ghetto Fighters Museum. This kibbutz was founded in 1949 by Holocaust survivors many of whom had actually fought in the ghetto or forests. One of the key fighters in the Warsaw Ghetto who escaped in the sewers and survived and helped start this kibbutz where people shared many of the same experience and could help one another. they started the first Holocaust Museum in the world with their own stuff initially. Now the Museum has grown to be very large. I thought we would spend one hour there but were there for 4.5 hours. It was very moving to read the short history of many of the survivors who lived in the kibbutz.
Next stop was Bet She'arim National Park southeast of Haifa where the famous Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi is buried in 220 CE. He headed the Jewish community and was head of the 70 member Sanhedrin Court that decided Jewish Law. He taught a whole generation of Rabbis and was famous all over, so much so that rabbis from all over wanted to be buried with him. From Arabia, Turkey, etc rabbis are buried in large caves dug into the mountain. He had to leave bet She'arim and then went to Sepphoris , but wanted to be buried back here. Some of the ancient town is uncovered too. The new town of Kiryat Tiv'on is beautiful with very nice homes overlooking a valley and in fact the view from the monument to Alexander Zeid of the entire Jezreal valley and Mt. Gilboa was fabulous. We bought some chocolate from Mishi a local chocolatier, very good.
What a great 3 day trip
Visit with Nomi, relative from ex,s family that Roberta was always friendly with. Got lost finding he condo despite my handwritten map from Google, which made it look so easy. After 30 min found someone who could help. Her son Oded we visited in 2009 in Arad where he conducts tours of the desert that we went on. He now makes jewelery and lives in Mizpa Jericho ( this is real desert living). Nomi is 85 and is a lovely lady and we went to her favorite restaurant in a Druze village Osafiya about 5 miles south of Haifa past the University of Haifa. The village was bustling with secular Jews from Haifa coming for a good meal on Shabbat. The portions were enormous. Roberta's veal actually lasted for 2 more meals for both of us. Mine just one meal. They brought salads for the 3 of us and despite my best efforts for them to bring for only one, they brought 10 plates of different salads for 3. Each cost 29 shelkels or about $9. we also bought some sweets which were great.
We got lost getting out of Haifa but after leaving the mountain ,it was smooth riding back to Nes Ammim.
May 12; First stop is the Lochamei Hageta'ot Kibbutz and their Ghetto Fighters Museum. This kibbutz was founded in 1949 by Holocaust survivors many of whom had actually fought in the ghetto or forests. One of the key fighters in the Warsaw Ghetto who escaped in the sewers and survived and helped start this kibbutz where people shared many of the same experience and could help one another. they started the first Holocaust Museum in the world with their own stuff initially. Now the Museum has grown to be very large. I thought we would spend one hour there but were there for 4.5 hours. It was very moving to read the short history of many of the survivors who lived in the kibbutz.
Next stop was Bet She'arim National Park southeast of Haifa where the famous Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi is buried in 220 CE. He headed the Jewish community and was head of the 70 member Sanhedrin Court that decided Jewish Law. He taught a whole generation of Rabbis and was famous all over, so much so that rabbis from all over wanted to be buried with him. From Arabia, Turkey, etc rabbis are buried in large caves dug into the mountain. He had to leave bet She'arim and then went to Sepphoris , but wanted to be buried back here. Some of the ancient town is uncovered too. The new town of Kiryat Tiv'on is beautiful with very nice homes overlooking a valley and in fact the view from the monument to Alexander Zeid of the entire Jezreal valley and Mt. Gilboa was fabulous. We bought some chocolate from Mishi a local chocolatier, very good.
What a great 3 day trip
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
May 13; I forgot to mention the we are taking 2 additional courses. One is finished now and was 4 part lecture on the Book of Ruth which is read on Shavuot that starts tonight May 14. The lecturer was Yael Zieegler , Ph.D. who was superb with a detailed analysis of the story that I will go into later. Course was at Pardes with a full house and all friends there were very impressed too.
Second course is on archeology entitled" Jerusalem during the First and Second Temple periods in light of Latest Archeological Discoveries' given by The City of David Institute for Jerusalem Studies. We meet 4 hours every Monday for lecture and tour of the sites.
May 13 Lecture was King Hezekiah who was King of Judah, the southern Kingdom with capitol in Jerusalem, who comes to power in 726 BCE at the age of 25. He followed his father King Ahaz who was not good. However the son Hezekiah was pleasing to the Lord 2 Kings 18:1.( where most of this story is told).
BOTTOM LINE; HE SAVED JUDAISM FOR CERTAIN DESTRUCTION.
At this time the Assyrian empire out of Northern Iraq was the dominant force and had conquered most of middle east from Egypt to Iran and had an incredible fighting machine that was really cruel that I will spare you the details. They would conquer a city and either kill people or transport them elsewhere and then settle some other peoples in the area thus preventing any chance of return. This is what they did with the Kingdom of Israel which was comprised ten of the twelve tribes; these northern 10 tribes really did disappear.
After defeating the 46 fortified cities along the coastal plain of Israel with their army under King Sennacherib ( Abbr: Senn. ) who called himself King of the Universe and his palace in Nineveh the capitol, the 'Palace Like No Other '. Their attack and victory at Lachish in the south of Israel north of Gaza is told in very large bas relief in the Israel Museum , a copy as the orginial is in Damascus ( maybe). We visited Lachish 2 trips ago; the seige ramp is still there and the ruins of the city destroyed. King Senn. then moved his army of 250,000 toward Jerusalem the last prize. Meanwhile King Hezekiah had 4 years warning to prepare. Water was key for defense of the city. Jerusalem is built where it is only because of the Shiloah Spring below the current hillside now called The City of David just outside the Dung Gate of the Old City. Now the area is mostly Arab called Silwan, but many Jews have moved in and on the hillside where all the archeology digging is going on. Hezekiah wanted the water totally inside the city walls and not acessible to the Assyrians who need a large water supply for their (200,000) men and horses.
So Hezekiah ordered a new tunnel be built that would divert the spring output to totally inside the new wall he is building at the same time. Two sets of diggers chipped thru the mountain at 2 ends and one year later met inside the mountain although neither went in a straight line. How they met inside the mountain is still a complete mystery. Many theories have been proposed and all easily rejected. How they meet at the same altitude is amazing too. Unfortunately the floor sloped slightly uphill so they lowered one end 5 m to correct this and now with a 2 feet drop over the 533 m tunnel, water did flow downhill into a new pool he constructed and the city was secure that way. We walked in this tunnel with water flowing some places to mid calf and most above the angles. It was so interesting to see the chisel marks going one direction at one end and the other direction at the opposite end. It took maybe 30 minutes to slosh thru the 3-4 ft wide tunnel. The northern workers only went 233 m and the southern workers 300 m.
The next project was to build a new wall around the new water pool and around the new city that had expanded as a result of Jews moving from the north as the Assyrians conquered all their cities. Jerusalem expanded 5 fold in a short time and this new area is now where the Jewish quarter is.This new wall is the 7 meter wide Broad Wall visible in the Jewish Quarter and a few other places. There is a goal of digging up a major part of the wall by Israeli school children though some land still needs to be acquired.
Now with water secure and a big tall wall in place how does Hezekiah still defend his city against the most powerful army the world had ever known. He followed the commandment, destroyed idols, and paid some 30 talents of gold to Sennacherib by tearing down gold doors and other stuff to raise the amount. see 2 Kings 18; 1-16. Next comes a exchange between the new General of the Sennacherib and 3 men sent out to meet him. This is straight from Hollywood dialog with threats, insults, don't trust your supposed allies nor your Gd, and don't worry if you surrender , we will treat you nicely and you can eat of your fig tree, all since we will defeat you for sure (2 Kings 18; 18:19-37). They also add that the gods of all the cities we just capture didn't help what makes you think your Gd will save you?
King Hezekiah now rents his clothes, listens to the Prophet Isaiah who said don't be afraid GD will save us. But only when The King prays and says to Gd don' t let us be destroyed or your work will be for naught and a beautiful prayer and logical argument -- a must read @ 2 Kings 19: 14- 19. Isaiah the adds his prayer and prediction that Sennnacherib will not enter the city nor even an arrow shot at the city, but the enemy shall just go home ! see 19:20-34. The next morning most of the soldiers were dead! Theories are that a plague came, that rats came and eat their leather shields or both occurred or just a plain old miracle unfolded immediately.
So with Hezekiah's excellent preparations and help from Gd , Judaism was saved from certain destruction. It looks like every 1000 year some empire tries to destroy the Jews. They do succeed in killing a large number of people, but we survive some how while all the evil empires do disappear. The Assyrians, Egyptians, Babylonians, Romans, National Socialists( Nazis) all gone. But why Jews have to suffer so, is beyond me!
Amazingly, the Assyrians were soon defeated by the Babylonians, the later by the Persians, the latter by the Greeks, then by the Romans. This area was not safe and has not known peace and interestingly that is still is true today!
Hope you learned something new, we certainly did.
Second course is on archeology entitled" Jerusalem during the First and Second Temple periods in light of Latest Archeological Discoveries' given by The City of David Institute for Jerusalem Studies. We meet 4 hours every Monday for lecture and tour of the sites.
May 13 Lecture was King Hezekiah who was King of Judah, the southern Kingdom with capitol in Jerusalem, who comes to power in 726 BCE at the age of 25. He followed his father King Ahaz who was not good. However the son Hezekiah was pleasing to the Lord 2 Kings 18:1.( where most of this story is told).
BOTTOM LINE; HE SAVED JUDAISM FOR CERTAIN DESTRUCTION.
At this time the Assyrian empire out of Northern Iraq was the dominant force and had conquered most of middle east from Egypt to Iran and had an incredible fighting machine that was really cruel that I will spare you the details. They would conquer a city and either kill people or transport them elsewhere and then settle some other peoples in the area thus preventing any chance of return. This is what they did with the Kingdom of Israel which was comprised ten of the twelve tribes; these northern 10 tribes really did disappear.
After defeating the 46 fortified cities along the coastal plain of Israel with their army under King Sennacherib ( Abbr: Senn. ) who called himself King of the Universe and his palace in Nineveh the capitol, the 'Palace Like No Other '. Their attack and victory at Lachish in the south of Israel north of Gaza is told in very large bas relief in the Israel Museum , a copy as the orginial is in Damascus ( maybe). We visited Lachish 2 trips ago; the seige ramp is still there and the ruins of the city destroyed. King Senn. then moved his army of 250,000 toward Jerusalem the last prize. Meanwhile King Hezekiah had 4 years warning to prepare. Water was key for defense of the city. Jerusalem is built where it is only because of the Shiloah Spring below the current hillside now called The City of David just outside the Dung Gate of the Old City. Now the area is mostly Arab called Silwan, but many Jews have moved in and on the hillside where all the archeology digging is going on. Hezekiah wanted the water totally inside the city walls and not acessible to the Assyrians who need a large water supply for their (200,000) men and horses.
So Hezekiah ordered a new tunnel be built that would divert the spring output to totally inside the new wall he is building at the same time. Two sets of diggers chipped thru the mountain at 2 ends and one year later met inside the mountain although neither went in a straight line. How they met inside the mountain is still a complete mystery. Many theories have been proposed and all easily rejected. How they meet at the same altitude is amazing too. Unfortunately the floor sloped slightly uphill so they lowered one end 5 m to correct this and now with a 2 feet drop over the 533 m tunnel, water did flow downhill into a new pool he constructed and the city was secure that way. We walked in this tunnel with water flowing some places to mid calf and most above the angles. It was so interesting to see the chisel marks going one direction at one end and the other direction at the opposite end. It took maybe 30 minutes to slosh thru the 3-4 ft wide tunnel. The northern workers only went 233 m and the southern workers 300 m.
The next project was to build a new wall around the new water pool and around the new city that had expanded as a result of Jews moving from the north as the Assyrians conquered all their cities. Jerusalem expanded 5 fold in a short time and this new area is now where the Jewish quarter is.This new wall is the 7 meter wide Broad Wall visible in the Jewish Quarter and a few other places. There is a goal of digging up a major part of the wall by Israeli school children though some land still needs to be acquired.
Now with water secure and a big tall wall in place how does Hezekiah still defend his city against the most powerful army the world had ever known. He followed the commandment, destroyed idols, and paid some 30 talents of gold to Sennacherib by tearing down gold doors and other stuff to raise the amount. see 2 Kings 18; 1-16. Next comes a exchange between the new General of the Sennacherib and 3 men sent out to meet him. This is straight from Hollywood dialog with threats, insults, don't trust your supposed allies nor your Gd, and don't worry if you surrender , we will treat you nicely and you can eat of your fig tree, all since we will defeat you for sure (2 Kings 18; 18:19-37). They also add that the gods of all the cities we just capture didn't help what makes you think your Gd will save you?
King Hezekiah now rents his clothes, listens to the Prophet Isaiah who said don't be afraid GD will save us. But only when The King prays and says to Gd don' t let us be destroyed or your work will be for naught and a beautiful prayer and logical argument -- a must read @ 2 Kings 19: 14- 19. Isaiah the adds his prayer and prediction that Sennnacherib will not enter the city nor even an arrow shot at the city, but the enemy shall just go home ! see 19:20-34. The next morning most of the soldiers were dead! Theories are that a plague came, that rats came and eat their leather shields or both occurred or just a plain old miracle unfolded immediately.
So with Hezekiah's excellent preparations and help from Gd , Judaism was saved from certain destruction. It looks like every 1000 year some empire tries to destroy the Jews. They do succeed in killing a large number of people, but we survive some how while all the evil empires do disappear. The Assyrians, Egyptians, Babylonians, Romans, National Socialists( Nazis) all gone. But why Jews have to suffer so, is beyond me!
Amazingly, the Assyrians were soon defeated by the Babylonians, the later by the Persians, the latter by the Greeks, then by the Romans. This area was not safe and has not known peace and interestingly that is still is true today!
Hope you learned something new, we certainly did.
Tuesday, May 7, 2013
Our first few days in Israel
The roses are in bloom--they have returned to Jerusalem and so have we.
The fridge and cupboards have food we bought at a local market. There are many brands and types of yoghurt, milk, wine, Israeli salads--difficult to make choices. Often prices aren't posted. Yoghurt is only in 6 oz containers wh/ are labelled in grams not oz. everything is sold in metric system which takes getting used to.
The cuts of meat are different. fish is sold whole and the fishmonger will fiilet or otherwise cut it up--however filet is the only word we know in Hebrew related to this process, so that's what we've done. 1 lb is roughly 500 grams.
Prices are better at the Mahana Yehuda (tHE Shuk)' It's really lively--the
men who operate the stalls call to each other and to the customers. Each stall sells a particular thing: fruits and vegetables, cheeses, olives, chicken and beef, fish, halvah, bread and cakes and cookies. Spices are piled on counters or in gunny sacks--piles of red, green, orange, brown, and yellow. Fruits and vegetables are displayed in colorful mounds. Prepared food is also sold--bereckas, falafel, vegetarian soups and salads, Italian fare, freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The fragrant odors change with the booth as you walk past. Four young men improvised on American tunes popular in the 1930s to 1950s near the falafel stand.
The fridge and cupboards have food we bought at a local market. There are many brands and types of yoghurt, milk, wine, Israeli salads--difficult to make choices. Often prices aren't posted. Yoghurt is only in 6 oz containers wh/ are labelled in grams not oz. everything is sold in metric system which takes getting used to.
The cuts of meat are different. fish is sold whole and the fishmonger will fiilet or otherwise cut it up--however filet is the only word we know in Hebrew related to this process, so that's what we've done. 1 lb is roughly 500 grams.
Prices are better at the Mahana Yehuda (tHE Shuk)' It's really lively--the
men who operate the stalls call to each other and to the customers. Each stall sells a particular thing: fruits and vegetables, cheeses, olives, chicken and beef, fish, halvah, bread and cakes and cookies. Spices are piled on counters or in gunny sacks--piles of red, green, orange, brown, and yellow. Fruits and vegetables are displayed in colorful mounds. Prepared food is also sold--bereckas, falafel, vegetarian soups and salads, Italian fare, freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The fragrant odors change with the booth as you walk past. Four young men improvised on American tunes popular in the 1930s to 1950s near the falafel stand.
May 6:4 hour lecture and on site explanation by Prof. Gabi Barkey who discovered this incredible site of burial caves from the First temple period. This was a major discovery for many reasons. First he uncovered a silver scroll containing the Priestly Benediction that is said today exactly unchanged that dates from the 7th century(C) BCE. This very small 3 in silver sheet that took 3 years to unroll(!), is the earliest known writing from the Torah!! See Numbers 6:24 for the prayer from the 7 th C and that today. Amazing it hasn't changed in 2700 years! In Orthodox synagogues , the Kohans( Priestly class) say this prayer in front of the congregation with tallis over their heads and fingers in special configuration and the congregation not looking at them. In other congregations, the Rabbi says this prayer and also on Friday night this is said as a peace blessing for all present.
The font is incredibly small and was done with a diamond type pen also described in the Torah but was thought to refer to some thing else not an actual instrument. In addition he found another silver scroll with the 4 letter name of GD (yod hey vav hey--R) that is not pronounced making this also the earliest writing of the Hebrew name of GD, a major finding. Both of these there dated by pottery found together and other means. These were made by the Priests and sold to make money. People wore these and were buried with them.
(The lord bless and keep you; the lord make his face to shine upon you; the lord grant you peace--sound familiar? R)
This site is outside the ancient city of Jerusalem but now is directly behind the Menachem Begin Center, just off the deck overlooking the Old City, just a few blocks from where we are living. Rich and important people could afford to quarry into bedrock to make burial caves where stone benches were constructed. the dead would be placed on a bench, some with head rests. After one year the family would come back and take the bones and pile them on top of the previous generation's bones.
During the first Temple period and in the first five books of Moses there is no mention or thought of resurrection. The dead were also buried with important things from their life. However over the years everything was stolen, removed, even the tops of the caves were quarried, removed, and used for building Herod's palace.The stuff was placed in a Depository under the stone benches.
When he was digging initially he used cheap 12 year olds as assistants. One kid hit a floor of the Depository with a hammer and broke it revealing the finds described above. What happened was an earthquake broke off the ceiling and fell on top of the items thus hiding them for 2000 years. He then quickly told the boys to go home and then hired MS archeologist students to do the careful work. Barkey became famous abut had to defend his work against someone who said all the material was 2nd Temple period. He assembled a new team and with new methods verified the dating to the 7th C. Similar tombs are all around Jerusalem but none have Biblical verses.
What an exciting lecture and viewing. Can't wait to show my family.
The font is incredibly small and was done with a diamond type pen also described in the Torah but was thought to refer to some thing else not an actual instrument. In addition he found another silver scroll with the 4 letter name of GD (yod hey vav hey--R) that is not pronounced making this also the earliest writing of the Hebrew name of GD, a major finding. Both of these there dated by pottery found together and other means. These were made by the Priests and sold to make money. People wore these and were buried with them.
(The lord bless and keep you; the lord make his face to shine upon you; the lord grant you peace--sound familiar? R)
This site is outside the ancient city of Jerusalem but now is directly behind the Menachem Begin Center, just off the deck overlooking the Old City, just a few blocks from where we are living. Rich and important people could afford to quarry into bedrock to make burial caves where stone benches were constructed. the dead would be placed on a bench, some with head rests. After one year the family would come back and take the bones and pile them on top of the previous generation's bones.
During the first Temple period and in the first five books of Moses there is no mention or thought of resurrection. The dead were also buried with important things from their life. However over the years everything was stolen, removed, even the tops of the caves were quarried, removed, and used for building Herod's palace.The stuff was placed in a Depository under the stone benches.
When he was digging initially he used cheap 12 year olds as assistants. One kid hit a floor of the Depository with a hammer and broke it revealing the finds described above. What happened was an earthquake broke off the ceiling and fell on top of the items thus hiding them for 2000 years. He then quickly told the boys to go home and then hired MS archeologist students to do the careful work. Barkey became famous abut had to defend his work against someone who said all the material was 2nd Temple period. He assembled a new team and with new methods verified the dating to the 7th C. Similar tombs are all around Jerusalem but none have Biblical verses.
What an exciting lecture and viewing. Can't wait to show my family.
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
Hello All; We are having wonderful experience in Jerusalem taking 10 courses at Pardes(5), ODED(4), City of David(1).
Pardes is a school within the modern Orthodox camp meaning men and women can study together and the name is derived from the idea that if you know the deep 4 levels of meaning of every word of the bible you can enter Pardes or in English Paradise. The Rabbis are very good and each class of 1.5 hrs frequently has pair study where 2 or 3 persons examine some text closely in a very large room with 50 other such groups doing the same thing. Noise level is high but concentration is high also. Courses;
1.Nachmanides and his commentary on the weekly Torah portion. He lived in Spain in last part of 1100's and the moved to Israel where he lived only 3 years. His common name is the RAMBAN and was an incredible scholar and writer.
2. Important Rabbis of the Talmud. The Talmud is the oral tradition of Judaism where the Rabbis from 50- 600 CE discussed every unclear, need update, or unfinished story , law detail , or expansion of every story of the Bible. It was started to be collected and organized In 150CE in Zippori a small town in the north that the Roman did allow study to continue. It was passed orally till 500CE when it was finally written down in Israel and even more importantly also in Babylon ( where Jews were since destruction of first Temple in 586BCE ) now Iraq! Each week we studyy a different famous Rabbi and his writings.
3. What's above and whats Ahead. A course about God, angels ( yes in Judaism too and first course), and the after life. The Rabbi is from England and that gives a slightly differ perspective.
4, early Zionist Leaders; We read Ahad Ha'am, Herzl, Jabotinsky, and others
At the Jewish Conservative Center in Israel where the name is Masorti not Conservative. Full name of center is Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center where they have a yeshiva (also as Pardes) but we study in the adult ODED Continuing Education.
5. Minor Prophets. We are studying Malachi in great detail/ Some days we only cover 4 sentences. Rabbi is Gail Diamond who is very good.
6. Torah portion of the week. Rabbi brings in many relevant commentaries from the Talmud to explain the weekly passage.
7. Archiology of the First temple period with an very interesting British lawyer turned archaeologist last 30 years. He also covered King Herod since the Israel Museum has a special exhibit on Herod that just opened. Only 5 years ago was the tomb of Herod discovered in a tel he built called Herodium. The archaeologist who work there for 30 years before discovering the tomb and palaces and water works incredibly 3 years ago when his fame and hard work was coming to fruition fell thru a weak fence and died on the site. This is really sad. We went to the exhibit yesterday and it was great. They took aerial shots and then superimposed computer graphic construction of the buildings from the inside out too show how magnificent each was. Herod killed his favorite wife, 3 sons, dozens of Priests when he thought he was going to die so the people would be mourning them and him by extension. It didn't work as he didn't die then but they did. So he had some anger and paranoid issues but we was a great builder of the second Temple and many cities around including Masada his desert get away.
8. Evolution of the Oral Law. See above on the Talmud. Judaism didn't stop with the Five books of Moses and the Hebrew Bible but constantly adapted, expanded over the years 200 BCE to 900 CE. The problem for modern Jews is whether this tremendous body of knowledge did stop then. The big issue in Judaism is whether to continue the process to the present or stop at 900 CE in the Oral Tradition. This is the main controversy between Orthodox Jews and all other Jews.
Pardes is a school within the modern Orthodox camp meaning men and women can study together and the name is derived from the idea that if you know the deep 4 levels of meaning of every word of the bible you can enter Pardes or in English Paradise. The Rabbis are very good and each class of 1.5 hrs frequently has pair study where 2 or 3 persons examine some text closely in a very large room with 50 other such groups doing the same thing. Noise level is high but concentration is high also. Courses;
1.Nachmanides and his commentary on the weekly Torah portion. He lived in Spain in last part of 1100's and the moved to Israel where he lived only 3 years. His common name is the RAMBAN and was an incredible scholar and writer.
2. Important Rabbis of the Talmud. The Talmud is the oral tradition of Judaism where the Rabbis from 50- 600 CE discussed every unclear, need update, or unfinished story , law detail , or expansion of every story of the Bible. It was started to be collected and organized In 150CE in Zippori a small town in the north that the Roman did allow study to continue. It was passed orally till 500CE when it was finally written down in Israel and even more importantly also in Babylon ( where Jews were since destruction of first Temple in 586BCE ) now Iraq! Each week we studyy a different famous Rabbi and his writings.
3. What's above and whats Ahead. A course about God, angels ( yes in Judaism too and first course), and the after life. The Rabbi is from England and that gives a slightly differ perspective.
4, early Zionist Leaders; We read Ahad Ha'am, Herzl, Jabotinsky, and others
At the Jewish Conservative Center in Israel where the name is Masorti not Conservative. Full name of center is Fuchsberg Jerusalem Center where they have a yeshiva (also as Pardes) but we study in the adult ODED Continuing Education.
5. Minor Prophets. We are studying Malachi in great detail/ Some days we only cover 4 sentences. Rabbi is Gail Diamond who is very good.
6. Torah portion of the week. Rabbi brings in many relevant commentaries from the Talmud to explain the weekly passage.
7. Archiology of the First temple period with an very interesting British lawyer turned archaeologist last 30 years. He also covered King Herod since the Israel Museum has a special exhibit on Herod that just opened. Only 5 years ago was the tomb of Herod discovered in a tel he built called Herodium. The archaeologist who work there for 30 years before discovering the tomb and palaces and water works incredibly 3 years ago when his fame and hard work was coming to fruition fell thru a weak fence and died on the site. This is really sad. We went to the exhibit yesterday and it was great. They took aerial shots and then superimposed computer graphic construction of the buildings from the inside out too show how magnificent each was. Herod killed his favorite wife, 3 sons, dozens of Priests when he thought he was going to die so the people would be mourning them and him by extension. It didn't work as he didn't die then but they did. So he had some anger and paranoid issues but we was a great builder of the second Temple and many cities around including Masada his desert get away.
8. Evolution of the Oral Law. See above on the Talmud. Judaism didn't stop with the Five books of Moses and the Hebrew Bible but constantly adapted, expanded over the years 200 BCE to 900 CE. The problem for modern Jews is whether this tremendous body of knowledge did stop then. The big issue in Judaism is whether to continue the process to the present or stop at 900 CE in the Oral Tradition. This is the main controversy between Orthodox Jews and all other Jews.
A fabulous musical week in Jerusalem
May 1, 2013
Last Tuesday and last night were Hallel CHoir rehearsals. I've sung with them on other stays here. We rehearsed an Israeli folk song, Salomon Rossi's Boruch Hu, a drinking song by Mozart--lyrics in Hebrew--it sounds like a real German drinking song, and a South African round. Rossi's music sounds typical of the Renaissance--he wrote for the court of the Duke of Mantua and also wrote liturgical music for the synagogue in the same style but in Hebrew; he was a contemporary of Monteverdi.
Thursday night we heard the Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra perform Cherubini's Requiem in D Minor for male choir and orchestra--quite lovely, He wrote this for all male choir because he had been severely criticized by the Paris church for a previous mass because it featured a mixed chorus.
What we really were interested in was Shostakovich' Symphony 13, "Baba Yar" for bass soloist, male chorus, and orchestra. Baba Yar is a poem by Yevgeny Yevtushenko--deals with Russian antisemitism (he is not Jewish) and Russian silence about the slaughter of Jews by Nazis at Baba Yar (Kiev). There are 4 other movements wh/ are seemingly disparate themes but deal with freedom and courage and human fortitude.
The second movement presents a personification of humor whom despots try to silence, kill, stop from dancing,, imprison but can not, "Glory to humor! He is a courageous fellow!"
In the Store, the third poem is about something as mundane as women in a store,, "They wait silently, the family's kind gods, As they clutch in their hands The hard earned money,,,They are our honor and our conscience. They have mixed concrete And Plowed and reaped. They have endure everything,,..,Everything on earth is possible for them, They have been given so much strength."
4, Fears--new fears arise after the old ones die.
5. called "Career" speaks about Galileo's persecution by the church--career involves a hypothetical man who didn't come to his defense because "he had a family And he, stepping into a carriage with his wife, Having accomplished his betrayal, Considered himself advancing his career," Poet also mentions Shakespeare , Pasteur, Newton, and Tolstoy., "Those who cursed them are forgotten. But the accursed are remembered well."
Anyway it was a wonderful experience.
Saturday night was Live at the MET--Handel's Julius Caesare--also playing simultaneously in Sebastopol. Wonderful performance--especially after you get used to big hairy men having femaloid voices--counter tenors--three of them.
Monday was a free chamber music concert by Voice of Israel radio--repertoire for 2 pianos.
Tuesday Stan heard a jazz concert at the American Commerce Center while I went to rehearsal.
And I'll write later about tomorrow's concert,.
Roberta
May 1, 2013
Last Tuesday and last night were Hallel CHoir rehearsals. I've sung with them on other stays here. We rehearsed an Israeli folk song, Salomon Rossi's Boruch Hu, a drinking song by Mozart--lyrics in Hebrew--it sounds like a real German drinking song, and a South African round. Rossi's music sounds typical of the Renaissance--he wrote for the court of the Duke of Mantua and also wrote liturgical music for the synagogue in the same style but in Hebrew; he was a contemporary of Monteverdi.
Thursday night we heard the Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra perform Cherubini's Requiem in D Minor for male choir and orchestra--quite lovely, He wrote this for all male choir because he had been severely criticized by the Paris church for a previous mass because it featured a mixed chorus.
What we really were interested in was Shostakovich' Symphony 13, "Baba Yar" for bass soloist, male chorus, and orchestra. Baba Yar is a poem by Yevgeny Yevtushenko--deals with Russian antisemitism (he is not Jewish) and Russian silence about the slaughter of Jews by Nazis at Baba Yar (Kiev). There are 4 other movements wh/ are seemingly disparate themes but deal with freedom and courage and human fortitude.
The second movement presents a personification of humor whom despots try to silence, kill, stop from dancing,, imprison but can not, "Glory to humor! He is a courageous fellow!"
In the Store, the third poem is about something as mundane as women in a store,, "They wait silently, the family's kind gods, As they clutch in their hands The hard earned money,,,They are our honor and our conscience. They have mixed concrete And Plowed and reaped. They have endure everything,,..,Everything on earth is possible for them, They have been given so much strength."
4, Fears--new fears arise after the old ones die.
5. called "Career" speaks about Galileo's persecution by the church--career involves a hypothetical man who didn't come to his defense because "he had a family And he, stepping into a carriage with his wife, Having accomplished his betrayal, Considered himself advancing his career," Poet also mentions Shakespeare , Pasteur, Newton, and Tolstoy., "Those who cursed them are forgotten. But the accursed are remembered well."
Anyway it was a wonderful experience.
Saturday night was Live at the MET--Handel's Julius Caesare--also playing simultaneously in Sebastopol. Wonderful performance--especially after you get used to big hairy men having femaloid voices--counter tenors--three of them.
Monday was a free chamber music concert by Voice of Israel radio--repertoire for 2 pianos.
Tuesday Stan heard a jazz concert at the American Commerce Center while I went to rehearsal.
And I'll write later about tomorrow's concert,.
Roberta
March 30, 2013
Hello all:First funny with new tablet while type can't see what needs typing. Next, key board lost spacer bar so we're stuck between 3
2 hard places.But trip has been great. first went to Palazzo Vecchio open till midnight. Was city hall in 1350's, TTF hen palace of Medici family with apartments of even Pope Leo.
Hello all:First funny with new tablet while type can't see what needs typing. Next, key board lost spacer bar so we're stuck between 3
2 hard places.But trip has been great. first went to Palazzo Vecchio open till midnight. Was city hall in 1350's, TTF hen palace of Medici family with apartments of even Pope Leo.
April 3, 2013
Hello all: Well in order to see all the great cities in Italy, I decided I needed a private driver. after interviewing several candidates,a selection was made.Winner was Roberta Berg, a native from Santa Rosa. She was been incredible going around hairpin curves, mountain roads, two lane road big enough for one car in cliff road of
> Cinque Terra. Of course she does need some to tell her at Evey circle with five choices, forks in the road, incorrect directions from GPS, short cuts , scenic choices, all from so-called Prince Henry the Navigator also currently residing in Santa Rosa. What a team,and so unexpectedly switching roles.
> Today we left San Gimigigano for Montalcino where we had lunch with famous Brunello wine, tourer town, then left for Montelpulciano, but first stopped at Casanova do Neri winery where I had their Brunello wines rated at 91, 95, and hold on to your taste buds, 99(one rater gave it 100!!! What a treat, price was 25, 50, 150 euro. Montelpulciano is like the others in hilltop town with walls built 1300 to 1550. Stone houses are all that old. Like stepping back in time. More details later.
from Roberta the long haul, tourist, stick shift driver and Stan the navigator and white knuckle passenger
Sunday, April 28, 2013
Our first day in Florence
April 30; Arrive in Florence at 3 pm. Roberta figured out that cab from airport is 20 euro per car not per person. Our female cabbie takes us thru tourists sites instead of direct route. Our apartment on Via de Neri just behind the Palazzo Vecchio is a great location. The building is 1000 year old and was once a tower. Our apartment is for hardy only as we had to walk up 4 or 5 flights and go pass 4 locked doors to get to our place. This also was for adventuresome as the bedroom was up a spiral staircase with half steps to reach a loft with a very short ceiling such that you have to really bend over or you bang your head. What fun getting up at night and going down the spiral staircase. But other than that, it was neat with little windows used for shooting arrows out of very thick walls. We bought groceries for breakfast.
After settling in, we immediately left for our first sight the, Palazzo Vecchio open till midnight. What a great site. The Medici's were very successful ruling Florence and surrounds for almost 200 years with only a few year gap ending in 1737. The rooms and ceiling very magnificent and was was the city hall and even the capitol of Italy in 1865 to 71 where the legislature meet in a grand room. After a nice dinner, we deserved rest in our digs for the next 4 nights. Desert was gelato from a place just a few doors down from our apt.
After settling in, we immediately left for our first sight the, Palazzo Vecchio open till midnight. What a great site. The Medici's were very successful ruling Florence and surrounds for almost 200 years with only a few year gap ending in 1737. The rooms and ceiling very magnificent and was was the city hall and even the capitol of Italy in 1865 to 71 where the legislature meet in a grand room. After a nice dinner, we deserved rest in our digs for the next 4 nights. Desert was gelato from a place just a few doors down from our apt.
Friday, April 26, 2013
April 5 Friday: PISA AND LIVORNO
April 5; We left Cinque Terre the mountain actually Cliff-side small town of Riomaggiori . Driving in and out is an adventure as one drives on very windy narrow one lane road actually 2 lanes. Roberta made it out wonderfully and we were on our way to Pisa only 1 hour away. we passed Carrara where the fabulous white marble comes from that Michelangelo used for David. Many marble companies lined the road with large pieces of marble waiting for shipment with very large cranes overhead.
Pisa was very interesting with of course the leaning Tower really leaning. We bought the combination pass to see all four main attractions. First we climbed the Tower all 294 steps to get a wonderful view of the city. In 1200's Pisa was powerful naval power with a great port. However the Arno river stated to silt in the harbor resulting that now Pisa is 6 miles from the Medditarerian. So it slowly lost power and the renaissance bypassed Pisa, thought it does have a great University. The Tower was started in 1173 and finished in 1350. We toured the incredibly beautiful Duoma began in 1063 with alternating layers of white and black marble. The Campo Santo cemetery with marble arch building with sarcophagi dating from Roman times. Last was the museum with many interesting things. Hard to believe but we did all this in 2 hours as we were on a tight schedule. Pisa has Jews living here in 850
Next stop was Liverno a harbor town just 20 miles south. The Medici's conquered this area and in 1593 issued an order allowing Jews and Converso ( old name Marronos) and just about anyone to come and develop the town as a trading center. Jews came from Turkey, Amsterdam, north Africa as well as others and made this thriving business center that enriched the Medici's even more so. The Jews here did not have to wear a badge, live in a ghetto and could live anywhere they wanted unlike all other towns in Tuscany. The business language was Spanish and Portuguese till 1790 when things got worse for the Jews. Our first stop was our B&B at someone private apartment which was enormous and the owners very friendly as they drove with us to a street with free parking and then walked wwith us backkk too their place. Their daughter then walked us to our first stop the home and museum of Amedeo Modigliani the Jewish painter who lived here till he was 22 before moving on to Venice and the Paris where he was part of the painters world till he died at 35 in 1918 from TB. He competed with Picasso and the others but stuck with painting faces with very long necks and very moving. He died poor and wouldn't you know it one of his painting fetched 30 million 2 months ago. He was movie star good looking and had many lovers. One was a Catholic girl a model who was incredibly stunning. He parents would not let her marry Amedeo for several years and they were about to marry anyway when he died. Unbelievably she jumps out a 9 story building pregnant with their 9 month child. This is really sad. Another lover commits suicide 2 years later He did have another child, a girl rejected by the mother's family so she was raised by his parents in Liverno. She became an artist also and worked to preserve her Father's work. Unfortunately the 'museum did not have any of his originals but many copies that are still very good. The house is now used also as an artist school and we had to leave as a class was starting.
Our guide here then took us to the Jewish Museum of Liverno which was in a rich person's house dating back to the early 1800's. In 1867 it began to be used as a synagogue that remains somewhat intact. It had a beautiful very large arc with gold leaf and many other local hand made religious objects from early 1600's on.
We then walked back to our B&B rested and then went to the famous Liverno synagogue for Friday night services. Liverno had the 2nd most magnificiant synagogue in Europe after Amsterdam-- built in 1780's but destroyed in 1944 when the Allies bombed the port. After the war,it was rebuilt but in a modern style which was very beautiful. Unfortunately there are few Jews left in Liverno but still there were about 18 men. The service is very different using Sephardic and Italian melodies ( from Spanish period so I was lost a large part of the time.) Afterwards we talked with several men.
We asked one older man how he learned English so well. He said he invited US sailors stationed in Livorno to his parents' home for Shabat dinner and learned from them. We asked how his family survived during WW2. He said his father had money and the family was hidden in a monastery.
We then went for dinner to a friendly lively restaurant. We had a great time--everyone there seemed happy and glad to be with friends and enjoying food and wine. By then Stan was familiar with the town and we walked the half mile to our B&B.
Pisa was very interesting with of course the leaning Tower really leaning. We bought the combination pass to see all four main attractions. First we climbed the Tower all 294 steps to get a wonderful view of the city. In 1200's Pisa was powerful naval power with a great port. However the Arno river stated to silt in the harbor resulting that now Pisa is 6 miles from the Medditarerian. So it slowly lost power and the renaissance bypassed Pisa, thought it does have a great University. The Tower was started in 1173 and finished in 1350. We toured the incredibly beautiful Duoma began in 1063 with alternating layers of white and black marble. The Campo Santo cemetery with marble arch building with sarcophagi dating from Roman times. Last was the museum with many interesting things. Hard to believe but we did all this in 2 hours as we were on a tight schedule. Pisa has Jews living here in 850
Next stop was Liverno a harbor town just 20 miles south. The Medici's conquered this area and in 1593 issued an order allowing Jews and Converso ( old name Marronos) and just about anyone to come and develop the town as a trading center. Jews came from Turkey, Amsterdam, north Africa as well as others and made this thriving business center that enriched the Medici's even more so. The Jews here did not have to wear a badge, live in a ghetto and could live anywhere they wanted unlike all other towns in Tuscany. The business language was Spanish and Portuguese till 1790 when things got worse for the Jews. Our first stop was our B&B at someone private apartment which was enormous and the owners very friendly as they drove with us to a street with free parking and then walked wwith us backkk too their place. Their daughter then walked us to our first stop the home and museum of Amedeo Modigliani the Jewish painter who lived here till he was 22 before moving on to Venice and the Paris where he was part of the painters world till he died at 35 in 1918 from TB. He competed with Picasso and the others but stuck with painting faces with very long necks and very moving. He died poor and wouldn't you know it one of his painting fetched 30 million 2 months ago. He was movie star good looking and had many lovers. One was a Catholic girl a model who was incredibly stunning. He parents would not let her marry Amedeo for several years and they were about to marry anyway when he died. Unbelievably she jumps out a 9 story building pregnant with their 9 month child. This is really sad. Another lover commits suicide 2 years later He did have another child, a girl rejected by the mother's family so she was raised by his parents in Liverno. She became an artist also and worked to preserve her Father's work. Unfortunately the 'museum did not have any of his originals but many copies that are still very good. The house is now used also as an artist school and we had to leave as a class was starting.
Our guide here then took us to the Jewish Museum of Liverno which was in a rich person's house dating back to the early 1800's. In 1867 it began to be used as a synagogue that remains somewhat intact. It had a beautiful very large arc with gold leaf and many other local hand made religious objects from early 1600's on.
We then walked back to our B&B rested and then went to the famous Liverno synagogue for Friday night services. Liverno had the 2nd most magnificiant synagogue in Europe after Amsterdam-- built in 1780's but destroyed in 1944 when the Allies bombed the port. After the war,it was rebuilt but in a modern style which was very beautiful. Unfortunately there are few Jews left in Liverno but still there were about 18 men. The service is very different using Sephardic and Italian melodies ( from Spanish period so I was lost a large part of the time.) Afterwards we talked with several men.
We asked one older man how he learned English so well. He said he invited US sailors stationed in Livorno to his parents' home for Shabat dinner and learned from them. We asked how his family survived during WW2. He said his father had money and the family was hidden in a monastery.
We then went for dinner to a friendly lively restaurant. We had a great time--everyone there seemed happy and glad to be with friends and enjoying food and wine. By then Stan was familiar with the town and we walked the half mile to our B&B.
Thursday, April 18, 2013
Our first few mportant days in Israel
Hello All; We arrived Friday morning at 5am from Florence by way of Paris, since Florence airport is so small with few flights. After a nap, we went grocery shopping , and stan went to his favorite synagogue,Shira Hadasha where the singing is great with Carlebach tunes and a women chazzan for Kabalat Shabbat. The nnext morning we went to our next favorite synagogue Beit Knesset Moreshet Yisrael, the conservative synagogue in the middle of town only 3 minutes from our aprt. The rabbi there |Adam Frank is a most unusual guy giving very short but pointed talks. He acknowledged us as supporters since we honorary membership.
Now the key part. Sunday night April 14 started Yom Hazickaren, the Memorial day for all died fighting for Israel since 1948. The siren sounded at 8pm and we went out side to stand still for 2 minutes and all cars did stop except for car marked UN. They couldn't be respectful I guess as this would be showing sides??
Next day at 11am,the siren went off again while we were in class.The rabbi informed us that exactly 23085 persons died since 1948 in Israel's various wars. He lit a memorial candle and sang El Molie Rachamin. It was quite emotional. The people here have had to pay a heavy price for some sort of peace. On TV on Sunday they had interviews with family member who lost someone. At night there were special ceremonies with songs, speeches and videos. You did not want to receive an invitation to these events.
Then at dark Monday, everything changed. People came out and the party started. Yom Ha'atzma'ut the Independence day like our 4th of July on steroids. Street vendors were selling very large blow up hammers for bobbing your friends on the head, every spinning colored lights device imaginable. The crowds were very large with an orthodox rock band in suits and tzittes on one stage singing. We walked to the municipal square where a very large crowd was dancing to a pop singer who was very good and got things really rocking. Roberta had a great time dancing with 20 year old girls until the very end. The was a very brief fireworks display that we could even count as fireworks.
The transition from a day of remembering all those lost in Israel's fight for existence and then the actual Independence day when Ben Gurion announced the state of Israel and read the Declaration of Independence is quite an experience .
The custom on Yom Ha'atzma'ut is the old fashion Bar BQ actually taken from the Arabs who BarBQ after Ramadan. We went to 2 BarBQ, one Monday night early at 6pm with services first at the Consevative synagogue and then the next day we went to my cousin Sam ( now Shimshon) at Tirat Yehuda after a 30 minute bus ride to the airport where he picked us up at the bus stop before entering the airport. Shimshon and Miriam are so nice. He still works one day a week at Ariel University suprivising graduate student research thesis projects. Their Moshav, a community where each owns their own property was once way out in the country but now is built up and has expanded to 7x in population in 35 years. Small scale farming is completely ceased.
All in all it was a very moving several days in Israel.
Now the key part. Sunday night April 14 started Yom Hazickaren, the Memorial day for all died fighting for Israel since 1948. The siren sounded at 8pm and we went out side to stand still for 2 minutes and all cars did stop except for car marked UN. They couldn't be respectful I guess as this would be showing sides??
Next day at 11am,the siren went off again while we were in class.The rabbi informed us that exactly 23085 persons died since 1948 in Israel's various wars. He lit a memorial candle and sang El Molie Rachamin. It was quite emotional. The people here have had to pay a heavy price for some sort of peace. On TV on Sunday they had interviews with family member who lost someone. At night there were special ceremonies with songs, speeches and videos. You did not want to receive an invitation to these events.
Then at dark Monday, everything changed. People came out and the party started. Yom Ha'atzma'ut the Independence day like our 4th of July on steroids. Street vendors were selling very large blow up hammers for bobbing your friends on the head, every spinning colored lights device imaginable. The crowds were very large with an orthodox rock band in suits and tzittes on one stage singing. We walked to the municipal square where a very large crowd was dancing to a pop singer who was very good and got things really rocking. Roberta had a great time dancing with 20 year old girls until the very end. The was a very brief fireworks display that we could even count as fireworks.
The transition from a day of remembering all those lost in Israel's fight for existence and then the actual Independence day when Ben Gurion announced the state of Israel and read the Declaration of Independence is quite an experience .
The custom on Yom Ha'atzma'ut is the old fashion Bar BQ actually taken from the Arabs who BarBQ after Ramadan. We went to 2 BarBQ, one Monday night early at 6pm with services first at the Consevative synagogue and then the next day we went to my cousin Sam ( now Shimshon) at Tirat Yehuda after a 30 minute bus ride to the airport where he picked us up at the bus stop before entering the airport. Shimshon and Miriam are so nice. He still works one day a week at Ariel University suprivising graduate student research thesis projects. Their Moshav, a community where each owns their own property was once way out in the country but now is built up and has expanded to 7x in population in 35 years. Small scale farming is completely ceased.
All in all it was a very moving several days in Israel.
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